RA's Journal: Rest and Recovery in Parapat (Lake Toba)

Adventure Cycling for Humanity 2011 – Indonesia
Rest and Recovery in Parapat (Lake Toba)
Elevation: 900 meter
Sunday 4 December 2011
Elevation: 900 meter

While writing this piece, I got a long distance call from back home in Singapore. A man, I will just refer him as “Sam”. Apparently, from the introduction, Sam is a long distance cyclist. He has participated in a few long distance and MTB races. I appreciate people giving me suggestions or advice on ways for me to survive Sumatra's mountainous region. If you are reading this and have already experienced the extreme cycling conditions on the Sumatran Trans Highway, please feel free to drop me an email at fluidrider@gmail.com.

After the short introduction and how he got my blog address and contact, he offered to give me a few suggestions on how to tackle, survive and complete my Sumatra mountainous stage. Being new to all this, obviously I agreed and Sam began with questions on how long I have been cycling, what was my training like, what was my fitness level currently at, what I eat everyday, and lastly what bike I am riding in Indonesia (so much for reading and following my blog) .

After answering all the questions, I stopped him and asked for his cycling background and race experiences.

“I cycle every Sunday on Changi Coastal and 2 OCBC Cycle 2 years in a row”.
”Have you ridden across the causeway and all the way to say…Penang?” I asked.
”I am planning too…hopefully next year”
”…and you’re going to give me free advice on?” I am now curious as I am more worried about my roaming bills.
”I know how it is like being on a bicycle and riding for longer distances. What you need is perseverance…” The rest sounds like it is coming from Google. As I was in some sort of rush to finish my report, I thanked Sam and told him I needed to conclude writing my report on the Sumatran ride.

Sam, if you are reading this, I am sorry to cut you off. I think it is irresponsible for me not to inform you on the real Sumatra. Let me put the mountain ranges aside, the crazy truck and bus drivers aside, and the pollution aside. The badly maintained roads aside. Let us focus just on Sumatra, the fifth largest island in the world itself.

Every single day I am here cycling is enough to give me the freaked on. You never know what or when will Sumatra be hit by a natural disaster again. Being here is enough to give me the feeling of how powerful mother nature is. You will see evidence of past disasters by just looking into the eyes of the elderly. The stories told are all real and it was recorded officially. Personally, from my little experience here, no long distance race veteran can prepare you for a place like Sumatra. The only way for you to find out how extreme it is here, is to be here and pedaling. You will have a better perspective on what I am trying to share with you. I am overwhelmed by it and to be honest with you, while writing this, I am also plotting my route out from Sumatra from the East or the South of Sumatra when / if I ever reached there.
I thank you for your advice, Sam. I welcome you to ride with me on my next leg in Indonesia so both of us can appreciate the power of nature (and gravity) together.
Earth Shaker
Hardly at the centre of international events, remote Sumatra isn’t exactly renowned for its influence on the rest of the world. That is until you tally up all the times that violent natural disasters on the island have literally shaken the planet.

Take for instance the 1883 eruption of Krakatau, 40km southern Sumatra coast. This volcanic explosion was equivalent to that 200 megatonnes of TNT, more powerful than the A-bomb on Hiroshima. So much ash was hurled into the atmosphere that the sky was darkened for days and global temperatures were reduced by an average of 1.2 degrees Celsius for several years.

It is said the blast that created Danau Toba some 100,000 years ago – before scientists were around to measure such rumblings – would have made Krakatau look like an after-dinner belch.

Then there was the 2004 Boxing Day earthquake, the world’s second largest recorded earthquake (magnitude 9.3). The resulting tsunami hit more than a dozen countries around the Indian Ocean, leaving more than 300,000 people dead or missing and millions displaced. The force of the event is said to have caused the earth to wobble on its axis and shifted surrounding landmasses southwest by up to 36m.

Few landmasses can claim to have literally moved the planet in the same way as Sumatra.
(Source: Lonely Planet)
Rest and Recovery in Parapat (Lake Toba)

Sunday 4 December 2011
Elevation: 900 meter

After getting myself a place to stay in Parapat last night. I gave myself and the bike a good cleaning, then headed out to the Javanese makan place for a good dinner. I think I should comment a little bit on this particular makan place. Firstly, it is the cleanest in Parapat. Second, the food is reasonably price (about S$3.00 for main and free water). Lastly, it is a good place to meet travelers. The name for this place is ‘Nikmat’. It is along Jalan Tiga Raja. If you ever in Parapat, try it.

Outside 'Nikmat' Javanese makan place.

It rained last night and it was beautiful weather to sleep and rest my aching muscles from the extreme climb. Even today when I got out from bed. I was woken up for a little while when a late guest arrived at 3am (Silvio and Linda arriving from Dumai ). After they settled down, I went back to sleep again. The first time in Indonesia, I had to sleep with the lights on. Why I heard you asked? The moment I turned the lights off, the mosquitos will come out from where ever and attack me like there's no tomorrow. I applied repellent but this is Indonesia mosquitos I am talking about. I am now swollen all over from the bites. I kind of regretted tossing my mosquito net away in the process to lighten my load.

Charlie's Guesthouse

Fish market just outside Charlie's Guesthouse

Time Check: 7.00 am (8.00am Singapore time):
What better way to be woken up on your cycling day off by an annoying car alarm installed on a ferry servicing Tuk Tuk, Lake Toba. It is insane. Sounding the alarm was a way for them to attract passengers. There is little I could do but just lay in bed and stared at the grimy ceiling. After I had enough of the alarm, I got out of bed, got cleaned, and brought the bike out.

the ferry service to Samosir Island in Lake Toba

I rode around Parapat to take some pictures and to look for a village school that I could go to on Monday. Schools in this area are pretty much better off than say, Medan suburb itself. There was no roof collapsing anytime soon. School buildings well maintained and everything looks neat and proper. I am happy for kids in Parapat. However, it is dirtier as I believe people here do not take hygiene as part of their culture. Everywhere I turned, I saw piles of garbage. Basic infrastructure like public toilets and rubbish bins are no where to be seen in Parapat. Even the accommodations does not come with a dustbin. As I say, hygiene is non-existence. People here need to be educated on how important hygiene is for them to progress and attract tourism again.

small example of Parapat, once used to be a tourist attraction

Since it was Sunday the roads were empty, I continued riding for a little while to see the unseen sights of Parapat – the advantage of traveling by bicycle. I am amazed to be at about 900 meters above sea level and be near a humongous lake – It is the largest lake in Southeast Asia, covering a massive 1707 sq km. In the middle of this huge expanse is Pulau Samosir, wedge-shaped island almost the size of Singapore that was created by the eruption between 30,000 – 70,000 years ago. The island, Samosir is actually not an island; it is connected to the mainland on the western side by an isthmus at the town of Pangururan. Parapat is not flat and to see it on a bicycle really needs a lot of work and made worst by the fact that there are nothing much to seen but old buildings and more garbage strewn everywhere. The town here was not only old but poorly maintained. Good thing was, they kept their religious home and schools in order.

riding around Parapat

riding around Parapat

riding around Parapat

riding around Parapat

Parapat needs someone inspirational to guide them forward and progress if the government does not want to do it. I do not know if that is even possible but I believe it has to start somewhere, in someones home. Start small, get their own house in order and hopefully, the neighbors would follow suit and slowly, the whole city, then the whole region and from there the whole Island of Sumatra. It might take 20, 30 or 50 years but it has to start from now. I think this is the only way to attract tourism again. With tourism booming, there will definitely be some sort of progression and from there, infrastructure can be improved and some rebuilt.

I kept going to find that beautiful place I was directed too by one local. Reaching there, I was greeted by more garbage and broken roads, it was not beautiful in my eyes but I obliged and took a few shots.

After about two hours of riding around with nothing much to see, I headed back to the guesthouse to give my bike a thorough check again just to be sure before my next long extreme journey to Bukittinggi via the mountainous ranges of Porsea, Balige and onward crossing the equator in Bonjol.

servicing the bike. Check for front rack damage and drive train

Just moments after I finished with my bike, Silvio and Linda (the guest that arrived late last night) got out from their room next to mine. We talked for just a little while and planned to meet for brunch at the ‘Nikmat’. We stayed at the makan place for at least three hours. There was so much for us to talk about, Indonesian culture, people, Hitler, East and West German, China, people who read too much and gotten no where, Columbia's safe place, Europe and Germany in particular was good country to cycle (I should be planning to cycle in Germany and through Europe) and of course talking about Singapore and its well manicured city and kiasu citizens.

Linda and Silvio from German at the Javanese rumah makan ‘NIKMAT’

We said our good byes as Silvio and Linda wanted to see Tuk Tuk (on Samosir) and I needed to continue writing this report while I still had the time (so people would get the report fresh). I also had to go look for a place to patch my two rear panniers and repair my handlebar bag holder. Lots to do and I do not mind it at all, as I get to see more places in Parapat while cycling or walking around.

I found a place for me to patch the panniers but not my handlebar bag holder. It was going to be very difficult as I was told there was no such place in Parapat. Still, I noted it down on my notebook to follow up if I saw any bicycle shop at my next destination, Bukittinggi. Like my whole body breaking apart, I suspected the damaged was from the bad road impact coming up to Parapat. In the meantime, I am just going to fix it temporarily. Make do with what I got. I headed back to the guesthouse to sort out my packing and see if I could lighten the weight further. Since my rear panniers had already given way, I would need to reconfigure my packing, having the heavier stuff in the front and the lighter loads in the back panniers. I am hoping it will not give way in the middle of the Trans Sumatran Highway thick rainforest as from my little experiences; it is not a good place to be, even for a night.

got my rear panniers patch and hand sewn from this gentleman

Most of Parapat's economy relies on tourism dollars and obviously, with the lack of tourism currently, there will be a lack of tourism money flowing in, or like the locals put it, “No tourists, no money”. It is really a ‘chicken and egg situation’. Parapat cannot improve if there's a lack of tourism spending and tourist will not want to be in Parapat (or stay longer) if the place does not improve (should the Government send direct assistance and improve the infrastructure? If yes, then a lot of other places need government funding). Parapat resembles the old Singapore when I was much younger growing up there. Singapore was dirty, the river filled with garbage, people littered and spat wherever they wanted too, there were hardly any clean public toilets and they stank. The good thing about the Singaporean government was that it acknowledged the problems and understood that to attracts foreign investment and tourism alike, a national cleaning campaign was needed to be established. The government took action cleaning up Singapore by applying strict rules and enforcing it. It was common sense to have people live happier in a clean city and at the same time attracting tourism and investment. For Parapat to achieved that, the people of Parapat and its officials need to lead by example and put the money where its should be spent. That is the only way forward. Like a man I met in a Medan café told me, “it’s hard for the people and the government to move forward and progress if they does not want to acknowledge the problems, get down to it hard and start educating the people on basic hygiene and be responsible for their actions”.
People need to have ownership of their surroundings and care for it. What I am seeing is the mentality of, “if I throw it here, the rain will bring it somewhere”. They need to understand that “somewhere” might be in someone else home. While riding around earlier, I saw a truck dumping the garbage collected in the city not very far outside the city centre. The question I asked myself again was, “what happens to garbage disposal here? Are there no penalty for such illegal disposal?”

At night, on my way back to my lodging, I experience Indonesia's “friendliness” disguised as a local “tour agent” who offered to show me around Lake Toba. I enjoyed talking to the local to know the place better and from the previous experiences here in Indonesia's smaller cities, I will usually end up being at the end of the stick. This time I knew what was coming up next and decided to stay wary. Over here, the line between friendship and doing business is not drawn very clearly. I told my “tour agent” friend that I just met that I am fine and can go around myself and I was told it’s better for me to have local to bring me around (that is true but only if he is your local friend). I asked him a direct question, “how much?” because I do not want a shock later on. He just smiled and told me “as you wish, pak”. I insisted to know the price because without a price tag, I will assume it is free and I do not want to be told later on that I needed to pay for his drink, his food and his time.

“Rp200, 000, pak”.

I am not sure if this was the sales tactic in the whole of Indonesia or just in Sumatra. In my first week here, I got (I felt I was cheated) three times. All from very friendly people coming in to the accommodation compound. I believed they prefer business to resemble friendship. They will start asking the standard questions and from there offer their services. All sorts of services. Usually from buying you dinner, bringing you to places and any sort that can bring them that crumpled Rupiah out from your pocket. I had enough of this and now, whenever I think it involves the Rupiah, I will insist that they to tell me the price, pay it, and ask for the receipt. No more casual business dealing knowing I will end up being at the end of the stick.

I told my new “tour agent” friend I do not have the budget and would prefer to see places on my bicycle. I wrapped up the night and slept early as it was raining and my body needed the rest. It’s hard to just meet people here in the smaller towns and to have a normal conversation like I experienced in the highlands where people were just simple and I believe they thought of nothing else but just trying to be accommodative and show you the nicer side of Indonesia. I like that kind of pure conversation with no hidden agendas.

Monday 5 December 2011
Elevation: 900 meter
Time Check: 7.00 am (8.00am Singapore time)

The town comes alive very early on Monday. Kids rushing to school and village folks trying to sell their goods. I woke up early today after getting much needed rest and peace. It was quiet on Sunday night in Parapat. I was told tourist arrival has dropped lately. From what I gathered, there are few reasons. Starting from the 1997-98 financial crisis, the Bali bombing, the Jakarta bombing and lastly Tsunami. Nevertheless, from where I saw, what's needed here is a basic improvement on the infrastructure and housekeeping, it is in a bad shape. I do not see one well-maintained road, or one single hotel that is decently maintained here. So far, I only have one city to think I am happy there, Pematangsiantar. Not that they are pretty and well organized, it is the first impression I got from the staff of Humanitas Guesthouse. I was tired and drained when I reach there, the first thing I need was a cold coke and I was given one. Everything felt the way it should be, clean, welcoming and the most important thing is that the price of the room was printed very clearly.

typical road condition in Parapat and around it

To get myself warm and start the day, I did a final checked on the bike and packed but could not leave yet as my laundry (riding gear) was not dry from the rain the day before. There was not much I could do here but to ride my bike out and rode 10km out of Parapat to see the road conditions. I was told by the local police and a contact in Medan that the road out from Parapat was bad. Made worse, the road was just enough for two vehicles and it was tight for overtaking. It was filled with potholes all throughout. I really needed to be realistic and for once take my contacts advise seriously. Just to be sure, I rode to the bus terminal and asked bus drivers for some information on the road conditions furter out towards Rao, Panti, Lubuk Sikaping and Bukittinggi. Why bus drivers? I learned they are the best people to consult as they are practically traversing the same way every other day. It was also good to make some friends with the bus drivers hoping they will know that there are actually cyclists traversing on the Trans Sumatran Highway. I got the same, “Bad road ahead and too steep…”

There was no way I could reach Balige or Bonjol (crossing the equator) in one piece. I made a turn after seeing enough of the road out from Parapat. It was getting harder each day here in Sumatra. The harsh reality hits me every single day – I am in Sumatra and it is tough to be cycling here.

I have not much choice now but to check the bus services out from Parapat going towards Bukittinggi or Sibolga and was quoted a high price. I continued asking around to look for cheaper alternatives. This was how it's usually done in Sumatra for bus services (at least if you are travelling with your bicycle, four panniers and one duffle bag – they see it as an opportunity). They will just quote you a high price thinking you are desperate to be on a bus. Usually they will tell you the bus is almost full and leaving in 5 minutes. Mostly not, true. The other one is the typical, “no problem, Pak”. After you get all your loads sorted and secured waiting to be loaded. Then comes the bomb, “the driver say cannot and asked for additional Rp100, 000”. The other one is this, Person A will quote you the normal pricing and tells you “no charge for the bike”. When the bus arrives and you are all ready, Person A disappears and Person B shows up, “oh… we don’t take bicycle, Pak. But that can be arranged with extras…” Every single bus company I went too, sees a cyclist with load as a prospect for them to make extra money, every single one of them. I have no such nonsense in Malaysia with the bus companies there. It is a direct “Wait for the bus, if the driver says ok, you go and just pay for your seat”. A very straightforward deal in Malaysia and that is how business should be done here in Sumatra.

While I was at the Javanese Rumah Makan “NIKMAT” writing the first part of this report, the same person I met up the mountain on Saturday showed up. I did not recognize him at all until he walked inside, spoke to the shop owner and sat behind me. I turned around once just to see and continued writing and minding my business when a voice from behind greeted me, “Khabar bang?” (How are you brother?) I turned around and now recognized the person. It was good to see him again and we got to talking and found out what he was doing up on the mountain. He was a local plainclothes police and just “doing his rounds”. Loosely translated, to see what I am up too riding into and around Parapat with load on my bicycle.

Going back to Charlie’s Guesthouse (a place I will not recommend if you are in Parapat.) I was asked how am I going out from Parapat? I told the lady owner by bus and she recommended me Samuel’s Sinegar Tavel and Tours. I was quoted way too high as I checked the bus price earlier it was only Rp150, 000 and my bicycle was free. Samuel quoted me Rp240, 000 and another Rp100, 000 for bicycle (so avoid anyone name Samuel Sinegar owner of Travel and tours in Parapat on Jalan Tiga Raja)


Some pictures for you all to enjoy while I decide whether to cycle of bus it out from Parapat and to Bukittinggi some 510 km away.

RA's Journal: Siantar to Prapat: Day 09 and Day 10 (Elevation: 900 meters)

It’s the craziest ride so far. Note to self: There is no easy way up a mountain road. In Sumatra, it does not matter which way you coming up from. It’s either the road is heavy with traffic, too bumpy filled with potholes, too polluted, too steep or it’s just simply to mentally draining to pedal just thinking you’re on the Trans Sumatran Highway.

I’m now in Parapat writing this report from Charlie’s Guesthouse. Highly (not) recommended if you (do not) like to see the real Indonesians. From here, your balcony of your room, you can see “Sumatran burning”. Practically every garbage from the street market (plastic water bottle included) is burn in front of your room and if you are not choking to death as I am, you can be a firefighter here in Sumatra. What is up with that? Are there no decent garbage disposals services here?

the ‘pekan’ view from my room

the ‘pekan’ the next morning

Before I go on, there is one special request from a ‘adventure cyclist to be’ for me to take a picture of my bicycle ‘cockpit’.

my bicycle cockpit.

On the space bar, I got my GPS mounted, my powerful torchlight and a small compass. On the handle itself, a small but loud horn and waterproof, a blackberry mounted on a console and my ABUS handlebar bag

Friday, 2 December 2011, Elevation: 400 meters:

It’s so nice here that I decided to stay another day and do my favorite “getting lost” in the back lane of Siantar. I rode around following the village roads and chat with the local. I also went to one school but they in the middle of a class. Some picture below for you to visualized the second largest city after Medan.

Siantar 01

Siantar 02

Siantar 03

Siantar 04

While riding back to Humanitas Guest house during lunch I saw something troubling like yesterday at Sungei Rampah but this time a woman in her 30. This is about 500 meter before Siantar Police Station. A woman walking completely naked towards the police station. She does not seem to be in some sort of distress. She was smiling and from the look at it, she is a little mental smiling all the way 50 meters from me. I am not sure if this is legal but as I waited, no once seems to be bothered by it. Is this a good thing? Personally for me, no. I try not to let it affect me and I continue riding back to the Guesthouse and along the way, bought myself a packet of Nasi Jawa. Delicious.

After lunch, I did some bicycle maintenance for the ride up to Parapat tomorrow and spend the rest of the day chatting with another guest from Padang. I slept very early and that didn’t last when a bunch of Tentera Negara Indonesia (TNI) arrive to stay the night there. I got out and chat with them until late. Oh boy, my climb tomorrow will be tough.

Saturday 3 December 2011

Time Check: 7.00 am (8.00am Singapore time), Elevation: 400 meters:

Got up at a little late, packed up and clean up. I am back to my standard routine and it’s easier now as I know what go which pannier and at which sequence. I become faster each day and it took me about 10 minutes today to pack everything in and go out to the kitchen to make myself a cup of coffee.

Time Check: 8.00am (9.00am Singapore time), Elevation: 400 meters:

A solid one day rest really makes wonder to the body and moods. I am physically and mentally ready for this one, the Siantar to Parapat route. I’ve positioned myself nicely to be at 400meter and what I needed to do now is to hit the summit somewhere at 1280 meter around 38 km away from Siantar before heading down to Parapat at 900 meter. In comparison to Medan to Berastagi, this will be slightly easier as I got 48km to climb up to 1280 meter from 400 meter. Not bad right? That is what I thought. I consulted the young Tentera Negara Indonesia (TNI) officer I met last night on the route elevation and what I need to expects from the climb before I depart. He is like my local “fixer”. I am going to see how good this TNI officer is. I am told the climb will be mild for the first 10km, road will be rough, I won’t be able to go fast on my bicycle with the load. After 10km, there will be a slight steep climb for about 5km before returning to gradual climb al the way at 20km marker (1000 meter). From here on the climb will get slightly harder as it will continue 28km (1200 meter) before dropping steep to 300 to 400 meter and climbs back up to 1280 meter until the 39km marker and I will go down all the way to Parapat. Sound tough to me. I thank him and took a customary photo before I leave the awesome Humanitas Guest House.

Me with the young TNI officer

Time Check: 8.30am (9.30am Singapore time), Elevation: 400 meters:

I took a different route from my GPS heading following what the TNI officer told me to see the other side of Siantar before leaving it. I had a lousy breakfast along the way and don't even bother to finish it.

leaving Siantar

Time Check: 9.00am (10.00am Singapore time), Elevation: 400 meters:

Pay up breakfast and start to move slowly out from Siantar village area taking the back road. I thought it’s a village road that is why the bad roads but I was wrong. I am now on the Trans Sumatran Highway again and this is the worst road ever. There is no way me going over 6kmh. I rode very slowly as I now has one tore pannier and one bent front rack. Any more shaking and rattling, the rack and the pannier will give way. My ride is just going to get tougher as each day pass me by.

Time Check: 10.00am (11.00am Singapore time), Elevation: 500 meters:

I managed to climb up to 500 meter without any drama as I was going real slow. Most of the time, I was on a very badly maintain road. My wrist, my shoulder, my ankle are taking the impact. Looking at how this is going, I will be reaching Parapat late today. I decided it’s time for a break 15km marker and take picture of the newly resurfaced road.

new resurfaced road

After a short ten minutes break, I took off and was greeted immediately with bad road again. The road getting to it original narrow size with not much for me to maneuver. There was not much else I could do but pedal up and just think of more positive destination – Lake Toba. Somewhere about 5km after restarting the ride, my front rack holder gave way. The first in my entire ride I panic. “Shit, shit, shit! Where am I going to stop to repair it". I continued for some 500 meter and saw what seems like a nice friendly elderly man. There outside his home, I did a quick temporary replacement and note it down to repair it when I reach Parapat. The real climbing looks like its starting.

A glimpse of the Trans Sumatran Higgway to Parapat - Video Credit: Plasanda

Time Check: 11.00am (12.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 700 meters

Since I am already stop and too tired to go on, I went inside the elderly man compound to say hi. I was invited to sit down and we chatted for about an hour. We talked about the Batak people, his former profession and he told me about Sumatran tiger and to watch out when I reach the 22km marker. I declined lunch, as I wanted to be light for the rest of the climb. Ok, ok, lunch for that day was dog meat! I will not dare to even want to give it a look.

with the elderly wife and grand daughter

Time Check: 12.00pm (1.00pm Singapore time) , Elevation: 700meters:

I say my good bye to my new friend and his family and continued my way. By now, I am nervous. I feel goose bump as I am very near the 22km marker soon. It is a long gradual climb and I feel difficulty breathing. I feel chill in my bones. At last, the 22km marker at 900 meter. Though I feel the chill, I stop to take picture of the marker and my bike. What the elderly man told me was true. I can feel the wind and the tree swaying while the other area doesn’t. I jump back on my bike and scoot.

the 22km marker, my bike and the steep climb starts from here

Time Check: 1.00 pm (2.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 1000 meters:

After pedaling like I’ve been chase by wild dogs for about 5km, I touched 1000 meter and stop at the entry point of a Forest reserve and chatted with three friendly government contractor. I got feedback on the rest of the route and now mentally prepared for it. I know now where and when the 400 meter descends going to be. After about 20 minutes of chatting, I made my moved for the last push up 1200 meter before meeting my challenge of the day – steep descends and climbing back up to 1280 meter.

climbing towards 1000 meter where the Forest Reserve entry point is

Time Check: 2.00pm (3.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 1200 meters:

The breathing getting harder and the push getting slower. Again I felt my braking mechanism is slowing me down. Ahead about 2 km, I saw a long lines of trucks not moving and I put that as my next marker to rest. Nearing the trucks, I saw one after another the drivers sitting at the side resting or playing cards. This is at 1200 meter, surrounded with beautiful forest with crispy fresh air. Even truck drivers feel tired. I stop in front of the rows of truck and walk behind to chat with some of them. A decision well made. I asked them why are they moving so fast and overtaking vehicle that can go faster then them? “More trip more money, Pak”. Ah..

the bike in front of the trucks

I left after they told me they would leave in about 10 minutes. In about 5km from here is where the steep drop going to be and follow by hard climb to 1280 meter before the drop to 900 meter into Parapat I so ready for this. I am now well rested and I planned not to stop until I reach Parapat. I have been worst going up Bandar Baru. When the descends appeared, I felt the chill in my face. It was one of the best feelings I had in Sumatra. Looking at my rear view mirror, I saw a line of trucks following me from behind not overtaking me at all. Reaching at the end of descends and climbing up, one by one the truck overtook me with their “friendly honking”. After all the trucks pass me by, I think I was temporarily deaf.

(

the size of the truck air horn

Time Check: 3.00 pm (4.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 1280 meters:

I survived the descend and make the ascend again up to 1280 meter. It was painful but like I said, I didn’t want to stop. After pedaling up for about 39km, it’s time now for a good descend and let the chill wind blow into my face. It didn’t happen as the road was worst coming down to Parapat. Potholes scattered everywhere and I don’t want my panniers to fly out. I rolled down easy controlling my bike.

entering Parapat in 9km and all the way down

Since I can’t go fast on the descend, I stop at a roadside warung for one chill coke, one teh bottle, one sprite, one coke again, one teh botol again and one sprite again.

outside the warung

After the refreshments and I still can’t go very fast down, I make a few stop along the way. Enjoy some of the picture below

Lake Toba 01

Lake Toba 02

Lake Toba 03

Lake Toba 04

Time Check: 4.00 pm (5.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 900 meters:

Have you ever been in a situation where you reach at your lodging and you can’t get near the compound? It happened to me today. It was jammed pack with street vendors that there is no way for me to get through it. I rode somewhere else for some good time and see Parapat.

outside a Javanese food stall and

from what I heard from the local, it’s delicious

As it got darker, I am tired and I needed to get clean, I rode back to my lodging and pushed my way through. Ever get yourself lock out from your own room? It happened to me tonight too coming back from dinner. Ever been woken up by latecomer to a guesthouse? (Joking. Linda and Silvio from German arrived very early in the morning and got themselves a room at Charlie’s Guesthouse. I wrote this just after having lunch with them. Nice people you will meet traveling in places like Sumatra)

It’s one of my best ride. Though it’s very tough 50km, I enjoyed this ride totally pushing myself and at the same time meeting many village folks and kids along the way.

RA's Journal: Medan – Tebing Tinggi - Siantar: Day 07 and Day 08

I’m now in Pematangsiantar (Siantar) writing this report. Pematangsiantar is second largest town after Medan city. It is at 400 meter above sea level, its cooling here at around 18-20 degrees, much neater than Medan and everything seems to be organized. Surprisingly, it was not in 'Lonely Planet book of Indonesia' at all. I will be resting here for 1 day before making my way up to the Batak’s highland of Parapat (Lake Toba). It is also dangerous to get here to Siantar and I will write it all in my report below. Before that, the continuation of my Medan to Berastagi report.

After my attempt up to Berastagi and all the incidents I met on the way up, I did some assessment and tweak the route further. This is in view of my safety. Getting back down to my start point is not a very hard decision for me to make this time and as my life was at risk riding on the Trans Sumatran Highway.

This video taken coming down from Berastagi to Medan - Credit: Pranvideo77

I need to be responsible to myself and put safety above anything else. It is better to stay at the top while I still can. I had enough of it on the last approached to Bandar Baru when a bus hurtling towards me overtaking another vehicle. I had never experience such thing in my life before and I do not remember such thing happen to me during my warm up stage in Malaysia.

coming down the Trans Sumatran Highway

So instead of using the Trans Sumatran Highway and continue my journey to Parapat from Berastagi, I got back down from the highland back to Medan, rested for 1 day, did some route revision after consulting fellow cyclists in Medan. The new route is South and Southeast to Tebing Tinggi onward to Pematangsiantar and hopefully up again to the highland of Sumatra to Parapat (Lake Toba) and onward.

*This provided it is safe for me to do so; else, I will abandon Sumatra and fine an alternative to be in Java. It is just too dangerous to be doing it day in and day out cycling and risking being hit. Therefore, this is the plan and we will see what happened. By the time you read this, it is either I am on my way up to Bukittinggi or making my gateway out of Sumatra.

Bandar Baru incident

That night when I reached Bandar Baru ‘Bungalow 48’ (it is actually a rundown sort of chalet masquerading as Bungalow), I didn’t really have much choice. I believe it is the only one up there. Even after inspecting the room and found out it did not come with a key and latch, I agree to it. I really need to stop being ‘Mr. Nice Guy’ and go kick some butt here. The person-in-charge name Ah Siong seems nice and we chatted for a little while about everything there, around Bandar Baru and how he a Chinese Indonesia ended up on a Karo village. A while later, the woman on the scooter I met earlier down at 400-meter showed up. She offered me her special ‘Jamu for strengthening’ and massage, but I politely declined and thank her for taking the trouble to look for me. I know she meant well but I do not feel quite comfortable to be doing that in a place I am not very familiar with. Now how can I go out and get dinner if my room does not come with key and latch?

“Oh not to worry, I will go get what you want”. Ah Siong told me. I smell rat immediately but what choice do I have. I ordered just white rice, two fried fish and gravy. Simple, the way I like it. “Bisa Pak” (No problem, Sir).

I went into my room, close the door and used one of the dining chairs available to hold it up the main door by the handle to ‘lock’ it. The water in the bathroom comes from the mountain and it is the old fashion way of bail and a big pail. The one you scoop the water and poured it over yourself. The water is freezing! No sink, no sitting WC, no towel rack and nothing to hang your clothing too. It took me about 10 minutes to get myself cleaned and just after I got out from the bathroom, I heard the knocked on my door. Perfect timing, Ah Siong is back with my dinner and when I asked for the damage, I was told, “Besok aje Pak” (tomorrow morning settle with the room)

I heard a fuss outside when I was having dinner but ignored it. I try to get my dinner done and over with so I can write the report to David and go too sleep. I do not like where this is going and try to ignore it. When I am done with dinner, the noise quiet down and everything seems to be back to normal. Since there is no proper bin in the room, I got out for disposal. The moment I got out, there is this person sitting outside my lodging steps smoking and to show some courtesy, I greeted him good night and he returned the greeting. Conversation broke out and it went on for sometime. At this point of time, my door was left open and I can see he tried looking inside my room. From the body language, the clothing he wore, he is neither traveling long distance nor having business meeting anywhere near or around Bandar Baru. He wore a pair of jean, dark polo shirt with what look like an old leather jacket. I spotted a dragon tattoo on his neck, the drink in his hand (covered in plastic bag) was a Guinness stout and he is highly intoxicated. From the tendency of rubbing his nose repeatedly, I also think he is high on drugs. That is just my assumption of course and I could be wrong. I need to know why he is up here and how long he is going to be around. I managed to dig out some information of him. He is from Aceh (we exchange identity card a trick I always used to confirm if a stranger is faking it), drove up to Bandar Baru from Medan for a “short gateway” (he lied as there wasn’t any car in the lodging compound) and going to leave the next day around lunch time. He asked if I want to go out with him for a light snacks and I declined and told him I am going to sleep early, as my friend is arriving early morning to pick me up from here. (Also a trick I used to tell someone suspicious that someone else knew my location and will be coming – so don’t do anything stupid) He offered me some green substance grown fresh in Aceh and I told him I am religious person and my religion prohibited me from taking those. The way this is going, I know he is up to do something later on. I excused myself and get back inside. Using the same chair, I jammed my door, did a pre-ride check on my bike, put everything back into the panniers, load it on my bike, secured it, I suited up (using my dry riding gears) in case I need to leave in a rush and I went to bed. With me as always are my powerful torch and my folding Smith and Wesson. I will find out if this dude will get an introduction to my Smith and Wesson later on.

The above is a standard safety precaution I always take before going to bed when there is a call for it. In high places like Bandar Baru, you will experience all sorts of people. People with different intention and from what I see, the Acehnese guy might try to sneak in later on and get whatever he can sell for cash. That I will make sure did not happen. Not on my watch.

It was sometime around 2am when I heard the noise from outside again. This time, there were about three people talking loudly. I stayed in bed listening. I do not understand as the conversation was in some sort of local dialect. I decided not to get out as it might be an attempt to get me out from bed and go out and check out what was the commotion about. I tip toe slowly to the door to check if the paper marker I placed earlier on the chair is still in it place. If it does not, it means someone tried to push the door open. It is still there at the original place. I tip toe back to the bed and just lay there looking at the ceiling until I fell asleep again.

The next morning I got up, clean up and look for Ah Siong to settle the bill. Room: Rp80, 000, dinner, Rp60, 000 and big bottle of mineral water, Rp10, 000. Total of Rp150.000. I know he is ripping me off. I negotiated and he agreed for Rp120, 000 and express thanks him for a good service. When he asked me where I am heading next, I told him the Police Station. I do this routinely before I leave the town I am in and report in went I arrived. This way, they know my where about in and out of the town.

leaving Bungalow 48

Tuesday, 29 November 2011, Elevation: 58 meters:

After getting into Medan city centre, I went back to the recognizable Zakia Hotel. I feel like home here though the price is slightly high for a ‘losmen’ (a backpackers place) at Rp130, 000 (S$19.00). Nevertheless, I do not mind it at all, as I get my laundry done free and people here are friendly and I met a few world travelers here. People from France, German and Australia. One memorable moment was an American couple coming to this region to experience Indonesia. The first thing they asked me was, “where was the worst place you’ve been?” I asked them to repeat the question again and they simplify it for me.

”So far your stay here, have you seen any place that is interesting to you?”

”Ah…yes. So far, the only interesting place I have been is the mosquito infested Corner Café Raya. It comes with wifi, next to the Masjid Raya and the busy intersection”.

The instant after hearing me, they laughed and told me their experience coming in from Singapore and into Indonesia to see the difference. When I told them I am from Singapore, they are quite shocked to hear it. “Gosh, you appear to be poorer than average Indonesian!” ”I recognize that…” I smile. My shorts is filling with holes and patches. I just love it and love the way people look at me. When I cycle, I wear simple clothing to move around and people seem to be ignoring me.

my shorts filling with holes

To let my disappointment out of not being able to complete the Medan to Berastagi route, I rode around Medan city centre, visited Ah Yong’s bicycle shop again, and consulted him. I told him what precisely happened on the highland and he told me not to worry about it. I am told to change the route from Medan to Tebing Tinggi and onward to Siantar to rest before going up to Parapat. When I get back to the lodging, I did some research on the new route. I found out the same small road, unsafe and with motor vehicle moving at high-speed. In addition, base on what Om Bahrain told me, it will be highly dangerous.

Road to Tebing Tinggi

What now? Catch the train to Siantar and bypass places like the Tebing Tinggi? There is no harm checking the price. Therefore, I rode out to the train station to check on train availability to Siantar about 150km away from Medan city centre. My ticket cost Rp14, 000 (S$3.00) and my bicycle cost Rp30, 000. Not too bad. Train leave tomorrow at 1.00pm (2.00pm Singapore time). This is the time to try bringing my bike for a train ride and I never sat on a train in Indonesia before. I thank the people at the train ticket counter and told them I will be back tomorrow with my full load and bicycle.

at the train station

I went back to Zakia Hotel, clean up, had dinner and when to sleep very early to ready myself for the long 84km ride to Tebing TInggi.

Wednesday, 30 November 2011, Elevation: 58 meters:

Time Check: 6.00 am (7.00am Singapore time)

I got up early today and start packing everything in but my laptop for some work later on at the Corner Café over breakfast. I did send out my dirty laundry for some cleaning last night after a week of riding (See, at least I maintained hygiene). After all packed, bike checked to be road ready for today ride, I walked to Corner Café for breakfast and did some work. There at Corner Café, I spoke to the café owner on my new route, he told me the exact same thing, to be very careful as it is going to be very dangerous. This same man told me how dangerous it is to be riding up to Berastagi. With the way things are going, it is good that I packed my bicycle in and go catch the train or just take to the air out from Sumatra. I convinced myself to try it, the Medan to Tebing Tinggi route and see what happen.

Time Check: 10.00am (11.00am Singapore time), Elevation: 58meters:

I’m all set to hit the road again. South in addition to southeast about 84km to Tebing Tinggi. Small road and risky and only comfort will be its almost flat as the airport. My first checkpoint will be 20km outside Medan city centre in Tanjung Morawa. I plan to do it real slow at 20kmh and if everything went as charted, I will arrive at Tebing Tinggi at 3.00pm (4.00pm Singapore time) The earlier stretch out of Medan is so much easier, wider road, though still as busy with lots of unlawful parking, street vendor along the road and mini buses stopping anywhere they desires too. As I wrote earlier, it is tiring riding in Medan; there is so many things you need to look out for. There is no structure of designated bus stop, taxi stop or any real enforcement at all. On this particular day, I was on a three-lane road and two of that were choking from unlawful parking and unlawful street vendors. That is how widespread unlawful parking and street vendors is here. The more I think of it, the more I wanted to stop pedaling and just sit along the road and…”I need to get myself sidetracked from this lunacy…” I have commit to memory what Adi Bochap Roman (my ol’ bro) told me, “get yourself distracted when the going get tough”. Out come my entertainment system and listening to my favorite music collection. Slowly, I got out from Medan madness and to a quieter road and I was powering out from on the flat road at 20-25kmh.

Time Check: 11.00am (12.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 58 meters:

I reached my first checkpoint at Tanjung Morawa one hour after I left Medan city centre and stop at a small road side stall. I spontaneously ordered my hot tea, sat there, and noted some notes for later writing. I need to get out on the road as quickly before it gets packed and blistering.

at my first rest stop

The first 20kmh today was just me loosening up my muscle for the day and I know the next 64km going to be stiff. The roads along the first 20km have been good with little potholes and wide enough for two buses to race each other. I took the narrow road shoulder and so far, no one inconvenience me and that did not mean the honking has stop. The Indonesia motorists are so gripped with the horn from my little experience here and I think they cannot drive without honking at least 10 times a day. I think it is the way of life to honk for no apparent reason. “Just honk, dong” should be the new slogan on the driving license. I never hear honking this much in my entire life. Every minutes of my life, here is filling with honking. God know what happen if the honking stops.

At the warung, I met the elderly owner who seems to have survived through the Japanese occupation and chatted with him. We spoke about his life in Tanjung Morawa and what he did for a living. I told him where I arrive from and what I am doing in Sumatra. Most people get pleasantly surprised when I told them I am attempting to cycle from Medan to Bali and mostly will tell me it is impossible. (I think they are 100% correct. The pollution, the drivers, the roads conditions, the weather making it impossible)

Just last week, pedaling up towards Berastagi, a lady told me that was the first time she notice someone cycling up with loads. I myself saw Evrim and Elif (brother and sister team) cycling down from the other side – Berastagi to Medan. Oh well, there is always going to be the first time.

After about 20 minutes at my first stop, I say my thanks and good-bye to the elderly man and gear up for the next 20km ride to the next rest point and hopefully lunch. By now, I can see the traffic getting heavier and feeling the sun getting blistering hot. To be able to arrive at Tebing Tinggi in good time, I need to sustain 20kmh and that also not forgetting to ride out of harm's way. By this time, the road got smaller and the vehicles still going faster like the destination they are going might not be there if they are late. “Jam karet” loosely translated is Singapore version of “rubber timing” and I believe the course of this rushing from point A to point B. If you were late for delivery or appointment, what would you do usually when you are driving? Speed and pay no attention to safety or other road users.

I saw several crashed vehicles on display along the roads deliberately placed by the traffic department to remind people ‘speeding kills’. I hope that really make people thinks twice. However, I doubt it.

Time Check: 12.00pm (1.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 63 meters:

I am still making good time but its just too hot for me to reach the next 20km rest point marker. I stop at a big ‘Garuda Restaurant’ 2 km short of my original planned rest point and meet one Japanese person smoking outside the restaurant. He is managing the rubber company that owns many rubber plantations in Sumatra. I think its Bridgestone. Slowly, crowds congregate and as usual, there will be many questions. Where am I from? How long have I been in Indonesia? Am I not tired? Where do I sleep? Do I miss home?

One Indonesian couple invited me to have lunch with them but I beg to be excused, as I was not ready to have a spectacular Indonesian lunch, not until I acknowledged this adventure is over. Now, I want to give attention to to do as much distance in Sumatra. I continue sitting outside the restaurant and answering stranger question. I did not mind at all, as I need someone to talks to anyway and good to put into practice my Bahasa Indonesia.

I left the Restaurant after 30 minutes of rest and toilet break. The first time I see toilet this spotless. One time before lunch somewhere in the highland of Sumatra, I enter one communal ‘W.C”, I came out and not thoughts of lunch anymore. That will give you the representation of Sumatra public toilet. I think there is something wrong here, something needed to get done urgently, and it got to starts with basic discipline and instill on the young. The administration needs to focus on the small things before it got out of hand. Simple things like “litter are meant to be in the bin” need to be cultivated in everyone. I remember in 2010 I was in one of Bali Mountain top having munchies and needed to throw the wrappers after, I asked the shop owner where I could throw the wrapper, she just told me to toss it wherever. I refused and walked to look for the bin and found none and walked back to ask her again, this time in a grim sound. She pointed to me behind her shop. I walked behind and saw something until today gave me the impression of Bali and its surrounding environment.

the mountain of rubbish in Sumatra

These are small things needed to be cultivated in the young people of Indonesia, very urgently, particularly people in the villages. They need to understand that anything that goes in the river, will reach down into someone else villages.

Time Check: 1.00pm (2.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 63 meters:

Again, I didn’t go very far and didn’t hit my next 20km marker. I was push out of the road twice, again by oncoming bus overtaking a truck and another one by a truck overtaking a car! Shaking from the double terrifying experience, I rode in to Pertamina (Indonesia National petroleum station) and just sat there.

at the Pertamina Petrol Station

By now, I am already left with no fuel (my rice balls and bananas) and left with only one spare water bottle and temperature soaring to about 40. It is so hot I am having doubt that I can ride the next 34km or so around this hour. I decided to just hang around the petrol station for a little while and get myself sorted. I bought two bottles of coke, one bottle of big Aqua water (water came from the Berastagi water processing plant) and went to chat with the station service provider who are there repairing one pump. Once I got them talking and sharing with them where I am from, we got on well. An hour later, the three of us (two of the service provider and me) decided to meet just inside Tebing Tinggi. The time was 2.00pm when we left the station and they told me I would be there one hour and 30 minutes. “Kami tunggu saja disana yea bang?” (We’ll wait for you there at pre-planned makan place). ”Ok.” I agreed and look at the time. 2.00pm and I got 34km more. If I do 20kmh, I should be there 90 minutes. This if nothing happens and the roads stays bicycle friendly. I took off before them going at 20-25kmh until for about 5km, I heard honking behind (what is new eh?) The honking keep going and getting nearer and low and behold, the two people I met at Pertamina.

“Wanker” I shouted at them and laughed. I think I had enough of honking and if I get another honking like this in Singapore, I will hammer those people. (joking)

We wave and they shouted, “Gerbang Beo!” The place where we suppose to meet ninety minutes later. This is where it got harder, when you planned to meet someone some thirty-four kilometers away on a small busy road made worse you are on a bicycle. I am now in that real situation. I made the obligation to meet them there and when I made commitment, nothing will be in my way to stop me – usually, in Singapore that is practicable. Not here, my brothers. Not in Sumatra. Ten kilometers out from Pertamina petrol station, about 500 meters ahead of me, I saw this scrap metal bus approaching at high-speed overtaking row of slowing down vehicle. “What the fu_k!” I looked to my left, no way for me to get in to the left, as it is just too small and dangerous. I stayed on my line in tight control of my bike. The f_cker high beam and honking to tell me, “get the fu_k out! I am coming!” Instead of slowing down and get back in into his lane, he kept coming at me. I can’t stop as it will be too dangerous if there is a fast coming vehicle behind. It is me in the drain (more like dirty smelly stinky water) or stayed on my line. I stayed on my line and know this going to be it. two hundred meters or there about, I saw there is no way he ever going to be able to make through with me on the road. I bring my bike slightly to the edge of the road and here we go. The scrap metal barely passing me with only 1-2 feet apart. Very closed call. After this, I tell myself, “screw it, I am leaving Sumatra”. I do not want to be a statistic here. I rode on forward to find a place to settle and took a picture of the road.

500 meter away is where the head on collision almost happen

I rode the rest of the 24km with a heavy heart to continue. This is one of the shittiest place I ever been. Motorists here are mostly lowly educated I think and they take life cheap. I had enough of this and once I reached my destination, I will plan my gateway out from Sumatra.

Below, I’ll give one example the kind of people I got to deal with every time I’m on the road here;

Mini bus driver. They will cuts into your line and stop immediately. Not likes there is any passenger for them to pick, they just doing it out of boredom and to see your reaction. On my way downward from Bandar Baru, I gave one Mini Bus driver a piece of my mind. I was enraged as he was doing it for fun and laugh when he saw that I almost hit by another car coming from behind. I hope he peed in his pant when I told him I will take down his number and report it to the traffic police of his action.

Along the way about 15km outside Tebing Tinggi in a small town of Sungei Rampah, I saw something that its hard for me to believe. An old man, looking dirty and homeless, standing over the other side of the road, practically had his pants down and showing his manhood to the open I am curious and I wanted to take the picture of this and stop safely by the side. For about twenty minutes, no police come and I thought how lawless this part of the world is. I continued and I thought, how sad for this to happen here in Indonesia, a Muslim country and disregard basic welfare for it citizen.

Time Check: 4.30pm (5.30pm Singapore time), Elevation: 80 meters:

I entered Tebing Tinggi an hour late from planned as I have already lost heart to continue. Good thing there is no airport here or I would packed it in and fly the next flight out. I couldn't find the two chap I promised to meet and continue to ride around Tebing Tinggi small city centre (third largest in Medan) and I know this place is not worth to hang around more than a night. I plotted "lodging" in the GPS and it brought me to two places. One a cheap Rp50, 000 “losmen” (backpackers) with lack of security and the second a typical “Indonesia hotel” where it’s work still in progress going for Rp150,000 (S$22.00) with wifi and a “restaurant”. As I needed to get some work done, I chose the latter. The joke was when I was asked, “What time do you want your breakfast, Pak?” I am like, “for real? You’ll send it on time?” I told her I want it at 9.00am Indonesian time. She actually wrote it down!

the hotel where work is still in progress

Just when I thought, “Wow, at last I can rest and think what will be my next plan be and hopefully it will get better tomorrow”, I got another drama coming at me.

From my previous lesson, learn at Bandar Baru, I asked to see the room. At Rp150, 000, I think I deserved to check the room. Fantastic spacious room but there is not electricity and the TV is not working and guessed what, is just like any other ‘Indonesia Hotel’ and filled with huge mozzies. I would not want to pay for room like this and asked for another room. The hotel staff showed me his grouchy face and walk back to the reception to get another room key. This time room ‘04’, not as “fancy” than the first but at least there is electricity with the TV is waiting to be send to the scrap yard . I am surprised it is still sitting in the room collecting dust – same price. This is the classic of ‘Indonesian Hotel’. The bathroom always shorts of hanging rack, what is up with that? Will I get one if I pay slightly more? No. I stayed in a Rp220, 000 before in Bali and the same. The best part was the hotel staff waited for me outside to be tipped. I gave him Rp2, 000 out of appreciation. The ‘restaurant’? It was just a place for the contractor working on the hotel to hang out. I was disappointed of course and just took it in and told myself ‘when in Rome, do what the Roman does’ – “tidak apa, pak”. I quickly get myself sorted, go out to eat and get back to the hotel to sleep early. I just did a very stressful 84km and I thought of nothing else but too sleep it off.

Thursday, 1 December 2011

Time Check: 7.00 am (8.00am Singapore time), Elevation: 80 meters:

I slept well as I am tired and did not wake up until I get a knocked on my door at 7.00am (8.00am Singapore time). “Breakfast, Pak…” Oh man...

I got a rude wake up call from room service. I remember telling the receptionist breakfast for me is at 9.00am. What was shocking is that, when I opened my door and wanted to receive my breakfast, I was pushed aside and two lady (one carrying the tea and the other a plate of toast) just walk into my room and speaking in Bahasa, “Ini orang dari kampung, lihat, dia datang dengan sepeda” (this guy is from the village, look he came with a bicycle). I told them off and do not let me see them again later in Bahasa Indonesia. So much of room service.

Time Check: 8.00 am (9.00am Singapore time), Elevation: 80 meter:

I get myself sorted, cleaned up and packed up my stuff but the laptop as I needed to check my email. I got out to the ‘restaurant’ and did some work there. I get myself some breakfast at the restaurant, not without problem. I was told my breakfast was sent early this morning. I told them yes, but that was just tea and toast, not fried rice and free flow of the coffee.

Time Check: 9.00 am (10.00am Singapore time), Elevation: 80 meters:

I got a message from Edi my Medan contact that some people in Tebing Tinggi wanted to meet me. One Pak Safwan a Police chief in Tebing TInggi and Salman a BMX team leader. I am ok to meet them as for today I only got 50km to do cover and I can leave at 11.00am and slow ride to Pematangsiantar to resolve my visa issue.

When Salman arrived at the hotel, I was told Pak Safwan could only meet me later at 5.00pm. That is not good news to me as I have made plan to be at Pematangsiantar today and I am reluctant to stay another in Tebing Tinggi. We hang around until about 11am and we rode together to Tebing Tinggi town to try to sort one matter.

Salman and his team at my hotel compound

The bank staff in BCA is quite helpful and advised me to head on to Pematangsiantar.

I have to be in Pematangsiantar today to sort some bank matter there (Siantar is second largest city in Medan) We went back to the hotel compound to chat more and by this time, I really think I should be heading to Pematangsiantar before the immigration closed.

I politely declined Salman offer to hang around for another day and visited his home as I think the immigration will only open half a day on Friday.

Time Check: 2.00 pm (3.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 80 meters:

After hanging around for about two hours, I left Tebing Tinggi. It’s still raining and immediately after passing Tebing Tinggi town, I can feel the gradual climb to about 130meter above sea level. It is about the height of Singapore Mount Faber. As I got 48km to be in Pematangsiantar before the immigration close or it gets dark, I did consistent 20kmh on an uneven road filled with potholes. I passed by oil palm plantation and since I have not take my lunch, I scanned for a roadside ‘warung’ for a quick bite. I found one just 10km outside Tebing Tinggi, a truck R&R. Here is where I almost gave up dealing with Indonesia everyday simple people. I like my tea to come with less sugar and usually I will ordered “teh kurang manis”. less sweet or less sugar). This young man taking my order asked, “What does that mean, Sir?" in Bahasa Indonesia.

”It mean, I want my tea to be less sweet” I reply him.

”How many spoon of sugar you want then?” He asked.
”How many do you usually put in a cup?” I reply him.

”I do not know. Do you want me to make your tea without sugar?”

”Yes please. I add the sugar later on, if you can please bring out the sugar out”.

A while later, he came out with the tea filled with the usual sugar level and with another small bowl of sugar. When I asked him if there is sugar in my tea, he answered, “Yes”.

”But why?”

”Because our tea always comes with sugar…I don’t know how to make tea without sugar”.

I almost fainted.

at the truckers lunch stop.

(This is also to give you the scale of the monster

I am with most of the time when I am on the road in Sumatra)

I left the stop as quickly possible. No point hanging around as the rain has not stopped and I hate riding so late in the day. I got about 38km more to go from here and it is like from Fort Road to Changi Village and back to Fort Road. The only different now is I am on the road riding with the rest of “drivers rushing to their next destination”.

Time Check: 3.00 pm (4.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 120 meters:

I haven’t found any safe place to stop after 20km of pedaling. Small road, no shoulder, potholes and I told myself to go on until I find a safe place to stop. After the oil plantation, I rode through the rubber plantation…about 10 km of it and I saw one durian stall on over the other side of the road about 2 km ahead. A chance for me to stop for a durian break. I am now about 16km out from Pematangsiantar city and I can slow down a little.

Time Check: 4.00 pm (5.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 160 meters:

The durian was not that good at all. I prefer Singapore Geylang or Malaysian village’s durian anytime. I paid Rp5, 000 for one which I never finished and gear up to catch up sometime to be at the immigration 2km out from my durian stop.

Within 10 minutes, I saw the Immigration Department ahead and check my side view mirror to prepare for the right turn into the immigration. All clear, make the turns into Immigration and no one was there as it’s almost closing time. I got the officer to attend to me immediately and she told me she to wait as she will get one relevant officer to attend to me before going out of my sight. I stand at the counter and wait. 10 minutes, no one showed up, 20 minutes later another woman officer showed up but was talking to the phone. I walked outside to check if my bike is still there. Walk back in the woman officer still on the phone. After about thirty minutes, she hangs up and asked if she can help me. “Yes ma’m, I was told at the airport to come here to extend my social visit Visa”.

”May I see your passport?” She asked.

”Sure ma’m.” I took out my passport and place it over the counter.

”You got anything else other than this?” She asked.

”Yes Ma’m” I took out my newspaper cutting to let her read of my intention being in Indonesia.

”What is this for? This won’t get your Visa extended.”

”Ok…” I replied and waited for her respond.

”Do you have anything else that might help to get your Visa extended?” She asked again.

”I don’t, ma’m.”

”I am sorry, I can’t help you.” She handed me my passport and that was it.

I am puzzled and explain to her that the immigration officer in Medan directed me to come here for the extension.

She told me I should get it at the airport instead of coming down to the office.

”So what now?” I asked her.

She leaned towards the counter and speaks softly to me, “I can’t help you, your document is not enough”

At the Immigration Department
I thank her and walked out. I don’t get it. What with the “document not enough”? Is money part of the document?

I put my gear back on and left the Immigration department. The climb to 400meter to Pematangsiantar city was a slow one. One disappointment after another. It is a sign for me to heads home and maybe chooses the next country for my mission.

I reached Pematangsiantar town after an hour of pedaling up at 6.00pm to a beautiful guesthouse and handle by nice people. I am so glad I am here and happy. I needed this badly. I had a superb Nasi Ayam Penyet and rest my tired soul. I will give myself a day off tmorrow and I will see if I am going to climb to Parapat.

Outside Humanitas Guest House