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Sharks for breakfast |
Friday, my second day in Sabah, Borneo and I got woken up early by the man who is going to ride ‘tip-to-tip’ of Borneo. Simon Sandi, a Sarawakian is going to do that with two other young cyclists from Kudat, Sabah. The three of them arrived in Kota Kinabalu late last night cycling 190km from ‘Tip-to-tip’ starting point, Kudat. If you haven’t try cycle touring, riding 190km on the first day of your 14 days trip, with loads on your recumbent bike (Simon) and mountain bike (the other two young man), going up and down Sabah rugged terrains, it is not a matter to take very lightly. Simon is one heck determined old man but it was a good call from the team to take a day off and see Kota Kinabalu and chill with me today. Simon and his team was housed at Promenade Hotels and Resort (a fantastic hotel in Kota Kinabalu if you ask me) and I was invited to join his team for breakfast and also press interview. It was hard for me to get up this morning. I cannot imagine how it is going to be for the rest of my attempt to cycle around Borneo starting in about 48 hours from now. I foresee there’s going to be pained in the butt, packing, brewing coffee, stowing away that brewing kit and ahead of me the road I have yet to travel.
Early morning of the second day in Borneo and I am thinking funny and what better to wake up with some sharks delicacies. I know this might offend some people from the “save the sharks” fraternity but let me tell you this; I am here to experience different culture, foods and any other along that line. Come what may and if push comes to shove, I’ll eat shark too. To me it’s just another fish. Ok, I didn’t exactly volunteer for this but the idea of tasting the shark's offered to me by the Borneo Beachouse boys is just very hard to resist. Why they eat sharks was beyond me and if you expect me to live like the mainstreams, writes beautiful stuff and expecting me to say the nicest things, I think it is clearly written that I am not that sort. The good news was that I didn’t go full on as the taste was just awful. So calm down sharks’ lovers, I am with you. I'll do shasimi anytime. Here is how the had prepared it,as was told by the "chef" himself.
"First thing..mesti guna daging ikan yu yg segar..ptong dan ambil yg isi sahaja...kulit mesti di buang dan ptong cube dging ikan tu..memotong..didihkan air dan msuk kan ikan selama 5 saat ..ptong limau kapas..bwang merah dan cili..msuk kn gula dan ajinnomoto jak..gaul ikan..dan semua rempah2 tadi dan msuk kan ke dalam fridge selama 1 jam.." Loosely translated; first, it got to be a shark! freshly caught shark! cut it into pieces and removed the skins. Cut the flesh into cube form, while doing all these, boil water and pour all the cubes meat into the boiling water. Next cut some lime, red onions and red chillis and these also goes into the boiling water with a ajinomoto and wait for another 5 minutes. Once done, put it in a container and put the container in the fridge for an hour. Go ahead, give it a try.
I am not a historian either but from the casual conversation I had with the oldies in Sabah, I found out the name "Land Below the Wind" was given to Sabah simply because it is located below the typhoon belt, thus setting the State free from climatic disturbances (sort of). It has also been said that Sabah was once referred to as Seludang in a 1365 Javanese text known as Nagarakretagama written by Mpu Prapanca. I am not 100% sure on this but it would be interesting to find that out the accuracy of that claimed.
From what I read in Wikitravel, Sabah was once known as North Borneo before its independence through Malaysia in 16 September 1963, Sabah occupies the top portion of Borneo (the third largest island in the world) and covers and areas of 74,500 sq km (29,388 sq miles) with a coastline of about 1,440 km (about the length from Singapore to Bangkok) washed by the South China Sea and Celebes Sea on the East. Sabah is blessed with a diverse landscape of tropical forests (which from what I see is slowly disappearing), rugged mountains, green flat lands and pristine seas teaming with indigenous flora and fauna some of which can only be found in this part of the world. Sabah climate is tropical but pleasant. Sunny blue skies typify most days and it is summer all year round. Depending on the month and your location in Sabah, rain may cause a little inconvenience. As a general guide, the wet season falls between November and February (Debatable with the unpredictable weather we have now). Sabah has a population of around 2.0 million with the ethnic Kadazandusun race being the majority followed by the Chinese, Malays and other indigenous groups such as the Bajau, Murut, Rungus, orang sungai and others. Together there are over 30 different races and over 80 different dialects, each group having its own colourful culture, tradition, festival and customs and unfortunately eating sharks is one.
I was in the main bungalow kitchen having a go at the raw shark when Alex, my new friend in Kota Kinabalu comes around to pick me up. We had planned to meet for breakfast, going around town and since there will be breakfast at Promenade Hotels and Resort, I had asked Alex to come along. Alex owns this old 4x4 wagon which reminds me of my 4x4, an old Suzuki Vitara. I am not sure if Alex using it for used in the jungle but it sure rekindle some of my 4x4 days. Then, I have this obsession of searching one “rainforest highway” used by the Orang Asli in Selai / Endau. I heard about that “rainforest highway” during my dirt bike days but I didn’t follow that up. I heard it again when I started driving my 4x4 in to Selai and this time round, I am more or less equipped for such adventure and the search for the “rainforest highway” was on. Some weekends, I’ll just drive to Johor and talks to the off-roading “abang” (strangers whom we call brothers as a sign of respect) if they ever heard of the Orang Asli “rainforest highway”. Some would go to the extend drawing me a sketch map in an empty cigarette box complete with landmarks and the entry and exit point and I quickly rally friends to look for it. Many times I was disappointed. One time, I was standing right in front of the discreet entry point; I took one look at it but thought that wasn’t it. I was standing right in front of it for god sake but I wasn’t confident enough to venture in further. I was alone with no co-driver.
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The Team (with me behind the camera) |
The only way to find it was with fully equip and formidable force you might think? Yes and no, I did organised numerous trip with other 4x4 groups to look for the “rainforest highway” and one experience I remembered started with a recce trip and I had also invited a lady friend, Alice (for the experience). This was supposed to be a day trip, a quick in take a look, cross check on the GPS, get out and plan a comprehensive trip at a further dates. So we happily went in one Sunday.
‘Ra, what to bring?’ Alice asked me the night before.
‘Hat, sunscreen, bikini and maybe a towel. We will be hanging out by the waterfall.’ I said to her.
The next day, 3 fully modified land rovers, 1 classic Series III land rover (which I am going to affectionately refer to as WWII relic) and one fully modified Jeep Wrangler (Rubicon) are set for the one day recce slash fun trip. So we roll very early Sunday morning to meet up at Gelang Patah shell station while Andy and Meng Choon joining us along the way on North South Highway. It was a straight forward 180km Sunday’s drive towards breakfast point just outside shell along Route 1, on Chaah before moving off using the J150minor road entering Kampung Bekok Ranger Station (for Park Permit) Within hours, we pretty much got everything sorted at the Ranger Station and are all sets to go for a day short adventure. Benson Tan drives his D110 with me as the co- driver, Meng Choon on his D90 with Andi as co-driver, Anthony Peplow was with Matt as his co-driver, Alvin, driving his WWII relic land rover with Alice co-piloting and Eric (Ah Kok) with his Rubicon and his lovely wife Alicia co-piloting. Remember our intention was to recce slash have fun, so we weren’t really self- sufficient on top of just drinks and snacks.
‘Let’s rock and roll’. Someone called out from the back. Benson and I were ahead on this section as I will be looking out for the landmark and the sketch maps that was given to me, behind us Alvin and Alice on the WWII relic, Meng Choon and Andy followed behind and Pep and Matt and Rubicon sweeping close behind. I’ve been in and out this area countless times. One time I saw 2 fully modified vehicles park outside on a concrete bridge complete with their tent set up, brewing coffee and just standing around. I know they must have been coming from somewhere but I didn’t stop to ask. Where I saw them, just after the bridge there is this telephone tower which I was told to look out for and from that tower, turn right and keep going. While Benson was concentrating on the wheels, I am busy looking at my sketch map and yes the bridge and tower was in the sketch map but not exactly where the right turn was. Could it be a right immediately after the concrete bridge crossing? So we’d that check out to be sure. Nope, it wasn’t it. We were out from there within twenty minutes but we witnessed how difficult for Alvin’s to get out from that trail. We put it aside not to bother us and press on towards the National Park. Somehow, something tells me the entry point to the “rainforest highway” got to be around here. Why would the orang asli ride all the way into the park and back track south to go to Kahang? Still, we need to look for it nearer the park as there are places needed to be seen, trail to be explored. We will never know. Anyway it was a Sunday time for some fun I had thought.
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The Machines |
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Benson's monster crossing the river |
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Brother Ah Kok clearing for the convoy |
We were all knackered after the major recovery work and I had it worst because I am still at it assisting Alvin in the pissing rain. I remembered covering the last small section of about 4km on a level ground was the toughest as the rain got heavier and the terrains gotten worst also at about this point of time we realised some of the smaller streams we crossed on the way in were swelling. I remembered at one RV point midway to the main river where we gathered to re-organised ourselves, we’d loosen up a little and joke about not coming home because the main river had swelled and we all laugh it off. Alice gave us the, ‘you boys better get me home tonight!’ look and we know she meant business. I didn’t know she just started her new job the same week not until later on. I was still jumping in and out of Alvin’s WWII relic to do winching recovery all the way to the end before the river crossing and when we got there, ‘Oh my god!’ was our expression at that exact moment when we saw the raging river. It didn’t just swelled, it farking swelled! (Excuse my language children’s) There was no way for us to cross that river tonight! I wasn’t worried and many of us either but Alice got to be back home tonight, ‘by hook or by crook’. We parked all the vehicles away from the raging river and walked towards it to reassess our situation. Andi whistles Meng Choon to drive his monster land rover closer so that we can wrap the tow-strap around and walk into the raging river to check for depth and current. Andi and I did just that and we looked at each other with the thumbs down, ‘No good to cross’, Andi called out and I realised this might screws up some of our Monday’s plans. Most of us don’t have to report to anyone (like a boss sort) but not Alice. She told us she needs to be back at work the next day as she had just joined the company not a few days ago. We have no mobile connection and we are not contactable, we are screwed. We are not going to die or anything but being Singaporeans, we are not used to this sort of things, you know – like no phone connection.
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'Chinese Parliament' in session |
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Cook out and coffee brewing session |
Around 9pm, 200km away from where we were, our friend Jerry Tay was calling and sms-ing friends about our whereabout and had plan and formed a rescue team to search for us. The one crucial thing I did was to sketch our route map and hand it over to Jerry. So more or less Jerry could tell the situation we were in if he hasn’t heard from us the first thing next morning. We were told he was ready to go in anytime if need be.
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Alice controlling herself against the call of mother nature |
(I’ll let Alicia, one of the members in the team to continue with the rest below)
Alicia Tan:
At first, Benson or Andy did check out the marker every now and then but eventually everyone was too tired as the rain didn’t stop until around midnight (if I’m not mistaken) both Benson and Andy decided to sleep in their respective vehicle and waited for mother nature to show her mercy. I remember the time because I woke up and woke Ah Kok up and said: ‘Well the rain had stop does it mean we can go home now?’ But sadly, Ah Kok said it still need sometimes for the rain water to flow from the top of the mountain to bottom and this river is one of the main river in this mountain and that’s mean we still have to wait until the river water level to drop and also the fierce current to subside then we are able to drive across and well, he estimated it to be around after 6am the next day. (Pretty accurate prediction) Very disappointed indeed but well, everyone of us didn’t brought any tent, sleeping bag, or even extra food as we expected it to be a day trip and we saw everyone were squeezing in side of the car like ‘sardine’ with different kinds of sleeping posture and yes, it was an experience that most of us never encountered before as the rain and the rise in the water level of the river weren’t totally put into consideration in this trip.
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Moving off early in the morning to make the crossing |
We had a short break after we had crossed the river, suddenly Ra phone started to ring (with the ridiculous Lady Gaga “Ra Ra Ra” tone) not once but countless times and the rest too, friends in the 4x4 fraternity whom didn’t joined us. We were very delighted as we managed to cross the river and our phone received signal, calling and sms-ing. Friends who didn’t joined us were so worried about us as they too expected it to be a day trip and that no one from this trip got out of the jungle the night before. After ensuring that we were safe, the next thing was to call our family, ensuring them of our safety and of course why we were not back last night, as many didn’t manage to call their wives the night before to explain the situation we were in or to inform their boss (Alice was one of them) for not reporting to work that day. Everything turn out to be a great trip and experience worth keeping and one thing we learn about this trip is regardless if it was a day trip or multi days trip, we must prepared extra food for unforeseen situation such as weather, accident, etc.
Alex and I arrived right on time for breakfast at Promenade Hotels and Resort. I didn't know Simon and the two boys were treated really good in Kota Kinabalu and I am happy for him. We were met by Simon and were ushered quickly by the hotel F&B manager inside the beautifully decorated interior of the hotel lobby lounge for breakfast. Anita Chung, the Marketing Director from Promenade Hotels and Resort join us shortly after and I was introduced immediately. We spoke briefly about Ride Around Borneo (RAB) and I was asked to follow up with an email to see the possibility of hosting me towards the end of RAB. Alex came back from the buffet table with deliciously looking breakfast but I can't make my move just yet as there are some other formalities to attend with the newspaper reporter and it was good hearing Simon sharing his team first day experienced riding from Kudat into Kota Kinabalu. This man, Simon is well organized and prepared for the interview with proper type up Q&A given to the reporter and his 'Tip-to-tip' schedule and and route planning. I am impressed and learn a thing or two about being organized.
Heather arrived in Kota Kinabalu sometime around 11 in the morning and immediately after her plane landed, we exchanged a quick messages and told her I should be making my way back to Borneo Beachouse and pack her a simple vegetarian breakfast along the way back in Tanjung Aru. This is our second time meeting each other, the first was when we were in Kuala Lumpur for a weekend and also to meet RAB supporters and friends. It was good to see Heather again after our last meeting and team bonding in Kuala Lumpur. I helped to get her stuff to our room and quickly after brought our bicycles out of the box to assemble before the press interview with one reporter from Daily Express, one of Sabah’s leading newspaper and another from Breeze Magazine, Dino a friend of mine. Simon and his team joined us for the press interview to share his ‘Tip-to-tip’ stories. It was a good session with everyone contributing a little about why they wanted to cycle in Borneo and for what purposes. Simon is doing it to challenge himself and also taking a break from his daily routine life - Work. Whereas the two boys wanted to experience how it would be like be like cycling out from their small town Kudat and all the way to end of Borneo 1,440 kilometres away from home. I am proud of the three and my hope was to have more people taking that challenge in the near future. No specific reason though just to see Borneo on a bicycle speed and discover stuffs along the way and partly the same reason why I am going around Borneo on my bicycle.
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Heather, Dino and the two boys (Minus Simon Sandi) |
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Alex putting Heather's bike together. |
Unding Jami gave us a courtesy visit |
Just before we took off, a friend, Sam send me a message to get us from Borneo Beachouse and bring us to the city centre for breakfast. I was so looking forward for the Indian Vegetarian’s breakfast. I am sure by now you realised it’s all vegetarian ever since Heather arrived in Kota Kinabalu. Yes, she is and I am happy to be vegetarian for the duration of cycling around Borneo, 60 days or so. Like eating meat, being a vegetarian won’t kill and so no harm giving it a try. My first taste of Indian vegetarian food was actually just recently in Petaling Jaya (PJ) when team RAB first got together. David Lee, Base Camp Manager for Team RAB who is base in Kuala Lumpur brought us to a place in PJ for some serious Indian vegetarian lunch. Everything that I had there was superb. I actually over ate and felt pretty bloated when we made our way back to the hotel. It was one serious lunch for a guy who eats little most days.
Sam came around just slightly after 9 am and quickly drove us to our breakfast stop in Gaya Street. It was the first time we met and we introduce ourselves while on our way to breakfast. An owner of a fitness club (not massage parlour), nice guy, and well travelled and definitely someone I could hang out with, not on the bike though. Breakfast was heavy and we got on well actually. After breakfast, Sam drove us to Karamunsing complex specialised in electronics equivalent to Singapore’s Sim Lim Tower to replace my laptop charging cable. I was quite shock when the lady in the shop quoted me RM10.00 for a cable. It’s cheap! And I bargain harder but failed. It was half of Saturday well spends and we got back to Borneo Beachouse to get our bicycle out and rode around in the city centre one last time to absorb the atmosphere. Again for dinner, I handed the Borneo Beachouse in-house chef RM50 for him to get groceries to prepare us vegetarian dinner. We had planned to rest early tonight until I received a call while having dinner my buddy from Kota Kinabalu is coming over to bring us out for Dinner and some catching out session. We obliged of course and we headed back out to the city for couple of hours before heading back to get some deserving rest. I promised Malcolm I’ll look out for him when I am done with Ride Around Borneo 2 months later.
Heather and I packed our gears into our panniers, clean up and had a casual discussion of our first day tomorrow. Alex send me a message that he’ll be coming in the morning to join us for the ride. Everything looking good again and I tried to go to sleep knowing in less than 10 hours, we going to be on the roads riding around Borneo.