It was going to be a busy day for the three of us. The thought I had the chance to just chill and rest in Kuching turned into some sort of educational tour and I didn’t mind it at all. The very first stop was to meet another friend from Kuching, Jumry Ahmad over breakfast. He was keen to cycle from Kuching to Pontianak on a road bike. We spoke and shared information about the West Kalimantan and his route. Once that was done, we continue on to our second stop, Simon’s village in Kampung Seratau 20km outside Kuching. On the way there, I can see the same road I rode on a day before on the way into Kuching. Kampung Seratau was where Simon grew up hence the reason for him to be backed and cast his vote. We managed to hang around longer and I got to know more people while walking around the village. One thing I noted from my casual observation was that his village was green, people are happy and everything looking in order.
Our third stop was to drive further 80km inland to Greg village, Kampung Bunan Seria or was it Mangkos. On our way in, I can imagine during those days when there wasn't any motorised transport. The dayaks actually trek the vast jungle from point to point. Sometime it takes over one night to reach their destination. Like Simon, Greg needed to cast his vote where he was born. I moved around the voting centre to see how the voting processes were conducted. Just 1 week back, while riding out from Sabah towards Sarawak, I witnessed truck loads of villagers being transported from their farm or plantations into the small town to collect their “goodie and voucher”. Since I was curious, I rode to where those distribution centers were. It was very clever of the ruling government to be taken care of the villagers and at the same time winning their heart and mind. (Opposition supporters, this is how you win votes! Don’t just sprout nonsense on social media) I was told this only happens when comes election period and I suspect just to win votes. What bullshit. Anyway, I got a better picture here in the village. Generally people are happy with what they have and to be very honest, it is going to be very difficult for any opposition to win. I know because I was there, I see for myself how it was done and I spoke to many villagers. These people are contented with what they have and what the government provided. In short, they are happy. One advice to the opposition party supporters, go to the villages on a bicycle to do some outreach project. On a bicycle speed, you’ll be able to see and meet more people.
Day 16 was easier. It was Monday and I woke up just before Simon left for work. I was shown to a classic bicycle Greg brought earlier for me to ride around the city centre. I quickly clean up and pack up my stuff to bring it along for some sightseeing in the city before collecting my bike at Moh Tak Bicycle Shop. Just before I step out, I got a call from Jumry to meet for breakfast at Kopi O’ Corner, in the city centre. Since it’s going to be a challenged to look for that place, I’ve arranged to meet him an hour later just in case. It was really hard to locate the place and I was sweating bucket. Finally after 30 minutes, I found it. My relieved and followed with disappointment when Jumry told me he is going to be late. It was nothing special, just a chit chat and older friend of Jumry recommended that I used the Kampung Biawak border crossing and I asked why it was highly recommended.
“Nice road in Kampung Biawak and after the border crossing.” He also planned to organise a ride from Kuching to Pontianak via Kampung Biawak, Sambas, and Sengkawang and to Pontianak before taking the bus back to Kuching. Oh boy, that is going to be hard to plan. It was partially true about the many rest stops after Gading onward but what wasn’t accurate was the “good roads”.
I left after breakfast and went on to do some touristy stuff. I must emphasize that I am not big on touristy place or sightseeing. It is just not me. I am not doing Ride Around Borneo for that, my mission was simple, to ride around Borneo. The decision to tour Kuching on my bicycle came yesterday when I first rode into Kuching. I found people (motorists) here are friendly and I think are lots for me to see on a bicycle speed. It was really nice cycling in Kuching city centre and healthy for the mind after seeing nothing but oil palm plantations the last 14 days.
After the formality of being a tourist, I headed to Moh Tak Bike Shop to collect my bicycle. I was shown the damaged bottom bracket and was told the new one will last me for about another 10,000km. I was charged minimally, only the cost of the bottom bracket and labour was for free. Simon came by and we hang out for a while before I left the bike shop to continue riding around Kuching. Bad call to have leaved the bike shop as soon as I was caught in the rain! It was fun riding in the rain though and made the decision to continue pedalling the last 15km or so to Simon place and getting ready for early dinner with Francis, another good friend in Kuching. It was a good outing with Francis and Simon, both an avid cyclist. It was a simple dinner and I appreciate it none the less as it was good to be meeting Francis again after few months. We chatted, talks about my route in Kalimantan and I promised to keep them posted on my progress.
I packed up my stuffs and had an early night making sure I'll have enough rest to continue my journey into Kalimantan.
I left Simon’s house on day 17 before sunrise and pedal slowly out of Field Force estate. It was not hard actually to pedal again after solid two days rest as my body wast about to finish repairing itself. It must be shock for my muscle to know we are back on the road again. The first hour pedalling was on flat ground. I played the route in my mind and visualised the distance I am covering, 100km to Lundu. While pedalling, I was also contemplating if I should stay the night in Lundu and make a detour into Bau to explore the area and the nondescript border crossing into Kalimantan. From the start in Kota Kinabalu, I have been rushing and racing against the clock to get to my destination. I hardly had time to make any detour to certain places and since this is a brand new week, I definitely want to make a changed. So it has been decided that I will be heading into small town Bau about 40km away from Field Force estate and from there after seeing places, I will be heading into Lundu another 60km from Bau. I am fresh from my rest over the weekend and I can cover the distance hopefully before dark. (An example of me underestimating Borneo heat and terrains again)
The morning was easy and I tried not to stop in order to cover distances before the sun comes out. Exactly an hour later, I saw somewhat like a nice stall with various size turnips laid on top of the stall counter. Turnip is one of my favourite vegetable (fruits?) and I got to stop to buy one of two depending on the sizes and price. One thing led to another and I got a small conversation going with the Chinese stall owner about small town Bau, the caves attraction and was also told not to cross the border via Bau-Seluas as the roads are bad and over in the Indonesia side, it will be all old Kampung hilly logging track. Wow, I like.
“Man, I got to see this myself”. I was convinced. I have no idea what I
was thinking. It’s going to be additional 40 scroching hot kilometers.
After 10 minutes of information gathering, I bought two turnips, thank the
stall owner and make my move. A short 30 minutes ride later, I saw the turn-off
junction into Bau and about 6km deep into small town Bau. There was something
different about this part of the road after Kuching. Yes there is still
climbing to be done, but it wasn’t extreme, just mild roller coaster road. Nice
shade on the side, beautiful hilly green and rocky scenery. There were regular
stops if I need to have a break. I took my time to cycle into Bau and took some
mountain photos along the way. This was better than the last 1,400km!
By 9.30am, I was just outside the junction of small town Bau and was so excited that I beat the red light. Yes, I picks up speed and ran a ride light! A honk from behind followed soon and when I checked my side view mirror, a police outrider was behind me and quickly overtook me gesturing to follow him. “Damn it! Chill Ra!”. I was so worried if he going to led me to the police post and hold me there for ridiculous amount of money. My plans for to see the caves and border crossing will be screwed. My mind race very quickly to what sort explanations I should give the officer for beating the light. “Brakes faulty, Sir” was the best I could thought of or I could turn around and pedal as fast as I could climb those slopes and race the police into Lundu. I know I could beat him, in my dreams. I followed him in the end. 5 minutes later, we stopped and he pointed to me at the coffeeshop and told me he will wait for me there. I nodded and say thanks. That was it. I want to believe we understood each other. I wanted to photograph some local scene and I need coffee. Mr Officer-In-Blue understood just that. After buying some vegetables and 2 fishes, I cycle towards the coffeshop where there were about 6 police officers sitting. The first thing that caught my eyes was the MP-5 Sub machinegun laid on a chair next to a senior (older) officer. It was just there and the senior officer was enjoying his breakfast like the machinegun wasn’t there at all there. I wave at all of them and greeted, “Selamat pagi”. Most of them responded and smiled. A good start for me. Phew. I should buy them a round of coffee than.
By 9.30am, I was just outside the junction of small town Bau and was so excited that I beat the red light. Yes, I picks up speed and ran a ride light! A honk from behind followed soon and when I checked my side view mirror, a police outrider was behind me and quickly overtook me gesturing to follow him. “Damn it! Chill Ra!”. I was so worried if he going to led me to the police post and hold me there for ridiculous amount of money. My plans for to see the caves and border crossing will be screwed. My mind race very quickly to what sort explanations I should give the officer for beating the light. “Brakes faulty, Sir” was the best I could thought of or I could turn around and pedal as fast as I could climb those slopes and race the police into Lundu. I know I could beat him, in my dreams. I followed him in the end. 5 minutes later, we stopped and he pointed to me at the coffeeshop and told me he will wait for me there. I nodded and say thanks. That was it. I want to believe we understood each other. I wanted to photograph some local scene and I need coffee. Mr Officer-In-Blue understood just that. After buying some vegetables and 2 fishes, I cycle towards the coffeshop where there were about 6 police officers sitting. The first thing that caught my eyes was the MP-5 Sub machinegun laid on a chair next to a senior (older) officer. It was just there and the senior officer was enjoying his breakfast like the machinegun wasn’t there at all there. I wave at all of them and greeted, “Selamat pagi”. Most of them responded and smiled. A good start for me. Phew. I should buy them a round of coffee than.
I don’t know much about Polis Diraja Malaysia (Royal
Malaysian Police) but my personal experience with them was a very long time ago
sometime in 1994. I was only 24 then and quite naive with the police there
then. I was alone driving up to Kuala Lumpur using the popular North-South
Highway. Somewhere between Tangkak and Malacca (The Cross Winds section), I got
stop by the police (I am very sure it wasn’t the traffic police). I pull my car
over; stop and one officer walk towards me. The first thing I was told was that
I was going over the speed limit and asked for my passport. So obvious as he
knew I was a foreigner. He kept flipping on the pages repeatedly, after he looks
at me and asked how I wanted to settle it? I replied in a well-mannered tone,
“Can I have the paper so I can go pay it when I’m in Kuala Lumpur?”. The officer look confused and explain to me
that it’s cheaper to settle it there and then, no need paper. “Satu ratus sahaja”.
(Loosely translated: RM100.00 only) – A bribe. I agreed and asked if he can
give me a receipt. I think the officer
gave up and carry-on and write me the dubious summon, blardy RM300.00.
Obviously I didn’t pay as I was driving my company car and I didn’t break the
speed limit of more than 100km/h.
The present day Polis Diraja Malaysia is definitely cleaner, smarter and more professional. In a way, I feel safe whenever I see them. During the early stage of RAB, I met a couple of them and I remember one experience with them at Saratok rest junction in Sarawak, where two officers greeted me and we shook hand. We talked about my journey and they asked if I have problems along the way there. They give me a nice feeling just asking those simple questions.
In Bau, it was the same. All the officers there gave me their best and we basically talk like we have known each other for ages. I even joke challenging the youngest officer for a marksmanship challenge using his service gun! When they saw me opened up the packet of Fried Bee Hoon Simon bought me earlier, they joke if I am saving to get married. It was so much fun. Before we parted way, the young officer asked which crossings I am taking and told me avoid the Serikin crossing, “banyak gunung bang dan jalannya buruk”. (There are too many hills and bad road). From Bau to Serikin crossing is only 25km away, I am not crossing there but I am keen to check it out.
“I will cross from Kampung Biawak”. I replied. The young officer gave me the thumbs up before excusing myself and cycle out of small town Bau slowly. It was 10.00 o’clock and hot when I left the coffeeshop. I have map out the rest of the route all the way to Serikin border crossing. Just after Bau the same traffic junction I beat earlier on, my phone rang and since I was on my hands free, I got the call through. It was my best friend. We had a huge argument a week before the starts of RAB and I thought of dropping her email when I have the chance and obviously I didn’t. “Hey, old man, you still alive?” Her standard for Good morning, Ra!
The present day Polis Diraja Malaysia is definitely cleaner, smarter and more professional. In a way, I feel safe whenever I see them. During the early stage of RAB, I met a couple of them and I remember one experience with them at Saratok rest junction in Sarawak, where two officers greeted me and we shook hand. We talked about my journey and they asked if I have problems along the way there. They give me a nice feeling just asking those simple questions.
In Bau, it was the same. All the officers there gave me their best and we basically talk like we have known each other for ages. I even joke challenging the youngest officer for a marksmanship challenge using his service gun! When they saw me opened up the packet of Fried Bee Hoon Simon bought me earlier, they joke if I am saving to get married. It was so much fun. Before we parted way, the young officer asked which crossings I am taking and told me avoid the Serikin crossing, “banyak gunung bang dan jalannya buruk”. (There are too many hills and bad road). From Bau to Serikin crossing is only 25km away, I am not crossing there but I am keen to check it out.
“I will cross from Kampung Biawak”. I replied. The young officer gave me the thumbs up before excusing myself and cycle out of small town Bau slowly. It was 10.00 o’clock and hot when I left the coffeeshop. I have map out the rest of the route all the way to Serikin border crossing. Just after Bau the same traffic junction I beat earlier on, my phone rang and since I was on my hands free, I got the call through. It was my best friend. We had a huge argument a week before the starts of RAB and I thought of dropping her email when I have the chance and obviously I didn’t. “Hey, old man, you still alive?” Her standard for Good morning, Ra!
I stopped the bike and we chatted for a while and I promised to drop her an
email once I am done with Ride Around Borneo. I continue on towards Serikin,
empty quiet road and first stop after Bau town, Tasik Biru, boring. Wind Cave,
gave me the goose bumps. There is something about place of interest (tourist
attraction) and me. I am not interested. Any place that has any signs of
tourist, I am gone. That says a lot about my style of travelling. I race
towards Serikin on a bad road as I was already behind time. I need to get out
of Bau before the heat gets me. Obviously I was slow. On the way in to the
border crossing, the heat was already sitting on my head. I pushed on up until
Malaysian side of the crossing, chatted with the immigration officers and also
the police. I managed to check with the Police on the Kampung Biawak crossing
and the officer eyes almost pop out when I told him I am crossing from there.
“Why don’t you use the Serian? That is where people cross into Kalimantan” Said the police officer.
I was a little confused. About an hour ago, his colleague in Bau gave me the thumbs up to cross there in Kampung Biawak. I seek for more information. He told me he have driven his car and cross from there and he changed his mind after seeing the Kalimantan side of the crossing. I was asked to reconsider and to make sure before crossing. I have not even reached the actual crossing and I have mixed information on that. “Oh well. I can cycle on a Park Connector back home if I wanted it to be perfect” I said to myself.
I need to chill somewhere and calm down so I went to look for a shady corner and made myself lunch of instant noodle with wild vegetables and fish all bought earlier in Bau market. For desserts, I have turnips also bought earlier. After, I took some photographs of the crossing for future reference.
I race out of Bau as fast as I could. Time was about 12.30 scorching afternoon. I have 26km to the main junction out towards Lundu and from there another hot 60km. In Borneo, to cover 80km at midday was insane, unthinkable. What choice do I have? I visualised the route ahead again and mapping out my rest stop every 1hr or 20km whichever comes first. Once I am out of Bau, I stop at the first roadside stall to load on water and bought the pre-paid phone card. With the midday sun sitting on my head, I have quite a long way to Lundu.
“Why don’t you use the Serian? That is where people cross into Kalimantan” Said the police officer.
I was a little confused. About an hour ago, his colleague in Bau gave me the thumbs up to cross there in Kampung Biawak. I seek for more information. He told me he have driven his car and cross from there and he changed his mind after seeing the Kalimantan side of the crossing. I was asked to reconsider and to make sure before crossing. I have not even reached the actual crossing and I have mixed information on that. “Oh well. I can cycle on a Park Connector back home if I wanted it to be perfect” I said to myself.
I need to chill somewhere and calm down so I went to look for a shady corner and made myself lunch of instant noodle with wild vegetables and fish all bought earlier in Bau market. For desserts, I have turnips also bought earlier. After, I took some photographs of the crossing for future reference.
I race out of Bau as fast as I could. Time was about 12.30 scorching afternoon. I have 26km to the main junction out towards Lundu and from there another hot 60km. In Borneo, to cover 80km at midday was insane, unthinkable. What choice do I have? I visualised the route ahead again and mapping out my rest stop every 1hr or 20km whichever comes first. Once I am out of Bau, I stop at the first roadside stall to load on water and bought the pre-paid phone card. With the midday sun sitting on my head, I have quite a long way to Lundu.
I’ve heard about some climbing towards Lundu by none other than Mr Simon Sandi and
I am not looking forward to that as by now, my speed had dropped drastically to
a slow 16km hour and I have done only 20km out of Bau. The thought of covering
another 80km suddenly became unreachable, not achievable. At about 2.30pm,
another call came in and it was Francis, from Kuching. I got the call through
and reported to Francis my location and I was given a basic direction for the
short cut into Lundu and promised I’ll give him a call again before entering
Lundu. That call from Francis was enough to power me in the ridiculous heat.
The road was rolling with the ups and down and I continue on to avoid reaching
Lundu in the dark. Ten minutes after I last spoke to Francis, the first big
climb stared at me. It was really hot and I was already burned out. There
wasn’t any shade so stopping wasn’t in my mind. I dropped all the gears and
start the slow long climb. The first thing I did once I was on top was to hide
in the first shade I saw. It was that hot. I was happy to be able to climb that
high long slope and I want to believe my previous weeks of riding in Sarawak
had prepared me for that.
After a quick short ten minutes break, I powered on
and by now, I have about 45 long hot km more to go and time was closed to 3.30pm.
In a flat flat cycling world, I can cover 45km in about 2.5hr. Here in Borneo,
maybe 3.5hr. By now my right knee gave a
little pain. No drama, I can rest it while using my left to power me forward. I
broke those miles ahead of me into smaller parts and cover it one at a time. I
am also in luck as the weather turns out to be overcastted and I pray for it
not to pour. At 4.30pm, another long slow climb up and I flew down fast after and
back up. I am starting to love this climbing part as that can only mean I will
be flying down again after. I have 20km into Lundu at 5pm. No problem I can do
this, though my right knee giving me a slight pain whenever I power up. I hate
to imagine if it get worst farther into Ride Around Borneo. But I will worry
about that when it get to that stage. Now, I need to race into Lundu.
By 6pm, I was on the main bridge into Lundu and
contacted Francis as promised. “After the bridge, take the immediate right and
you will be passing Kampung houses into Lundu”. Francis gave me a precise
direction and I saw that turn off and took it. I rode through the Kampung
houses and managed to do a quick stop to pack burger for dinner later. Just
stopping for burger and I’ve attracted kids from the village out of their home.
I am not going to just stand around while they watched me waiting for my burger
so I ordered one for every kid. It was small money.In Lundu, I stopped for my burger dinner and asked
around for Sematan. I was told it was too far away, 30km out. Since I need to
ride around to look for a place to stay, I move out to see Lundu for a bit and
look for a Police post to report I am there and Fire Station to see if I can
sleep for a night there. I found the Police Station on my way out of Lundu,
check-in but not the Fire Station. Road ahead was good to Sematan but narrow.
It was getting dark and I needed to secure a camp site or a place to stay
quickly. In the end, I didn’t get both and an off duty police officer driving
saw me and advised to head back into Lundu as the place I am on is not that
safe to be out after dark. I understood him and I was ok with that as I have at
least a visual how the road towards Kampung Biawak will be like. I reached
Lundu small town about 7.30pm and spotted a corner coffeeshop and headed there.
Ordered a big “teh ais”, hook up my phone to my laptop and chatted with a
friend from home and drop David, Simon and Francis a message. I was dead tired
and I don’t know what tomorrows might bring. I Google for a place to stay and
found a cheap RM30.00 transit hotel not far from where I was. Get my tired body
over there, paid, asked for a pail and quickly did my laundry before cleaning
up. The next thing I know, I went to sleep with my laptop staring at me. I
didn’t get up until the next day at 4am.
It was way too early to get out of bed on day 18. I stayed on the bed for another hour doing some stretching. At 5am, I brewed my coffee and turn on the phone to check on the weather for the day. It’s going to be a hot 33degrees Celsius. I wasn’t in the form to cycle today. Still feel the twinges in the knee and the body feeling the ache. It was my last day in Sarawak and after, I have Kalimantan to cover before coming back into Sabah a month later and finish that last stretch in Sabah before I can rest and have fun again. I finished my coffee, took the map out and visualised the route to Kampung Biawak and the border crossing. Once that was done, I cleaned up and packed everything in.
It was way too early to get out of bed on day 18. I stayed on the bed for another hour doing some stretching. At 5am, I brewed my coffee and turn on the phone to check on the weather for the day. It’s going to be a hot 33degrees Celsius. I wasn’t in the form to cycle today. Still feel the twinges in the knee and the body feeling the ache. It was my last day in Sarawak and after, I have Kalimantan to cover before coming back into Sabah a month later and finish that last stretch in Sabah before I can rest and have fun again. I finished my coffee, took the map out and visualised the route to Kampung Biawak and the border crossing. Once that was done, I cleaned up and packed everything in.
I was ready to go by 7am and the first stop was Lundu
Police Station reporting to them where I was heading and asked for the best
breakfast place. “The junction of Kampung Biawak has got a corner coffeeshop
decent enough for breakfast” one officer told me so. By 7.10am, I was out of
Lundu Police Station and headed 10km towards the junction and the coffeeshop.
Personally for me, it is a good practice to share my route with the local
police and requested they pass on the message to the next post I am headed to.
It’s a simple foolproof security practice. If I don’t show up by this time and
on that specific day, alarm will be sound and a search party will be activated.
That is what I was always hoping. If there will ever happen, I can’t tell.
A very slow morning as I only arrived at the junction and the coffeeshop 45 minutes later. It was actually a Chinese coffeeshop and I don’t mind that at all. I ordered two half boiled eggs and a cup of coffee. A moment later, I was surrounded by the locals Chinese, mostly there for breakfast before heading to work in the nearby quarry or plantations. Those standard question where I was from, how far, how long more to go, where my next destination and in returned, I will asked, “can take photo?” Usually I will get what I wanted and they were happy to oblige. One elderly man spoke to me about the new Kampung Biawak road and the oil palm plantations. I thought he saw my disappointment when he mentioned oil palm plantations. I will be pedalling more or less 20km into a blardy oil plantation. How do you motivate yourself? What do you expect me to do? Jump up, dance and start singing, “woohoo....oil palm plantation...woohoo...oil palm plantation...”. Nevertheless, I appreciate the information given and thank him. Man, I hate the oil palm, every time I rode in there, it was like cycling in a steam room!
I read oil palm is Indonesia biggest export product to Europe, Japan and Australia. To be supplying those quantities, I can imagine what sort of scenery I will be seeing once I am in Kalimantan. My objective was to avoid those plantations. Avoid it at all cost. Why would I want to torture myself riding in it? If I want to ride in those plantations, I will do one ride just for it and I will name it, “Oil Plantation Ride”. I bet the response will be good. Mountain bikers love to ride in there, they even race in it.
A very slow morning as I only arrived at the junction and the coffeeshop 45 minutes later. It was actually a Chinese coffeeshop and I don’t mind that at all. I ordered two half boiled eggs and a cup of coffee. A moment later, I was surrounded by the locals Chinese, mostly there for breakfast before heading to work in the nearby quarry or plantations. Those standard question where I was from, how far, how long more to go, where my next destination and in returned, I will asked, “can take photo?” Usually I will get what I wanted and they were happy to oblige. One elderly man spoke to me about the new Kampung Biawak road and the oil palm plantations. I thought he saw my disappointment when he mentioned oil palm plantations. I will be pedalling more or less 20km into a blardy oil plantation. How do you motivate yourself? What do you expect me to do? Jump up, dance and start singing, “woohoo....oil palm plantation...woohoo...oil palm plantation...”. Nevertheless, I appreciate the information given and thank him. Man, I hate the oil palm, every time I rode in there, it was like cycling in a steam room!
I read oil palm is Indonesia biggest export product to Europe, Japan and Australia. To be supplying those quantities, I can imagine what sort of scenery I will be seeing once I am in Kalimantan. My objective was to avoid those plantations. Avoid it at all cost. Why would I want to torture myself riding in it? If I want to ride in those plantations, I will do one ride just for it and I will name it, “Oil Plantation Ride”. I bet the response will be good. Mountain bikers love to ride in there, they even race in it.
I left the coffeeshop after consuming my simple breakfast, no more than 30
minutes. By 8.30am, I was already in the blardy plantation towards Kampung
Biawak. I saw the sign Kampung Biawak was 18km but the sign forgotten to also
include, “Hilly with Oil Palm on your left and your right”. About ten minutes
into pedalling in the plantation, my old bro Simon Sandi send me a message.
Since I won’t be able to make any contact when I am in Kalimantan, I tried my
best to response. While texting, I saw a green snake scurry across the road and
I quickly whipped out my camera to photograph it. It’s going to get wild in
Borneo. Francis called later on and we chatted for a bit. Again, it was good to
hear familiar voice and a voice I know I can rely later on, I hope. Before
entering the ‘Destination Unknown’, I drop RAB Base Camp Manager David a
message on my movement and route. Did I tell you cycling in oil palm plantation with
tarmac road are like cycling in a frying pan? It was so hot riding in there and
the time was only 9am. How I am going to survive in Kalimantan? I have no
answer to it.
I saw my first rest stop at about 10km mark after an
hour of pedalling and took it. It was an old church along Kampung Jangkar. Only
10km in an hour? Yes, the blardy hills, stopping for photos, stopping to reply
messages and one long stop to chat with the parang wielding oil palm workers
(They were more interested to know what I was carrying than chatting with me).
I remembered sending Simon a message to get Heather to change her route and
avoid Kampung Biawak at all cost. Those workers with parang in hand were
something I don’t take lightly. I cannot remember who shared with me about
someone got rob, the robber(s) tight the poor guy on a tree and left him there.
This happened in Kalimantan plantation road. That story bring chill in me. I
stopped, leaned my bike by the church main steps and the first I did was to
take out my Smith and Wesson “cooking knife” and slot it into my back cycling
jersey pocket. My “cooking knife” is my insurance and I will only draw if out
from concealment if my life was threatened. The church balcony brought some reprieved
from the heat. Blardy 10.00am it was scorching hot. I took a slightly longer
rest, about 20 minutes before moving on and now I wasn’t sure what was I
thinking when I chose to cycle in Borneo.
I left the church riding in the sauna powering with
all the energy I had, up and down in the plantation road for another 10km
before I see the sign, ‘Sempadan Indonesia’ (Indonesia Border). I know I am very near now and no turning
back. I have prepared my cover story if I was ever asked about travelling
document, passport alone wasn’t enough. In this type of nondescript border
crossing, I know they need some sort of documentation to proof why I need to
cross the border there instead of the specific international crossing in
Tebedu. I also have a listed down the equipments I am carrying in case the
border officers needed one. Extra passports photos for the border police if
they need one too. All set and prepared. I am ready for the crossing and what I
experienced later on at the Malaysia side border was something else. Something
I didn’t expect.
I have spoken to some dirt bike friends on border
crossing into Kalimantan. All suggested Tebedu and in my planning, it was plotted
as Tebedu. Coming from motor bikers, they don’t need regular rest stop. As a
cyclist, I need regular break stops every 20-30km, maximum 80km without break
on a flat road with shades. When I was told about Kampung Biawak crossing with
regular rest stop, I jump on it and Google it and found little information on
it. The nearest tiny town after the crossing would be Kampung Arouk and
followed by Gading, another small town about 30km after Kampung Arouk. On my
map, Sambas the major town was about 84km after the Indonesia immigration. But
I didn’t manage to find road condition, terrains and many more information that
was needed. If I wanted an adventure, this is it. The unknown and to be really
honest, I hated the idea.
By 11 o’clock, I was at the Malaysian side rest stop (a home with food stall in the front, pool table at the back and comfortable lounge) before the crossing. I prepared everything that was needed and place it in my handlebar bag. I took a 15 minutes break and top-up my water. I made my move at 11.30am towards the Malaysian immigration, smiling. There wasn’t any other human crossing at the point of time but me. All eyes were on me. From the police, the customs and everyone else in Military fatigue standing around under the shade. It was a modern and brand new Immigration, Custom and Quarantine centre situated in the middle of nowhere. I found out later the Indonesian built theirs 4 years earlier. The Indonesian government might have seen the potential of this crossing. Maybe it was nearer to Kuching. I pedal towards the lone immigration officers standing outside his booth but before I could reach him, I was welcome by two RELA (Para-military volunteers) and the first thing they asked was the purpose I am there. “Going into Kalimantan”. I told them with a straight face. I was immediately asked to follow them and was led to another lane and was told to wait. One Custom officer and one civilian with a side arm (semi automatic handgun) tucked on his waist show up. I know this going to happen when I was told to go to the next waiting lane. The two RELA officers stepped back and walk towards their post. I am now with one young custom officer and with one more looking like a special police, right hand on his side arm at ready.
“Good morning, sir”. The Custom officer eased the tension in me when he greeted me. I was that nervous, what with the dude and his sidearm looking at me. It was very intimidating.
“Hi, good morning...How are you?” I replied. The police officer with his hand still on the sidearm said nothing but watch my movement very closely. I thought it was so long ago when he last saw any action.
“Where are you going?” The custom officer asked and I replied the same as before, “Over there, Kalimantan”. I pointed over his shoulder towards Kalimantan and I kind of figure it out what will come next. I was asked for documentation to cross over. I took out just my passport and handed it over to the custom officer.
“Where did you come into Sarawak from?” It was a standard question and being in the state being intimidated, I had forgotten where I came in from. Was it Brunei and into Miri? Or was it Sabah into Miri? I pause momentarily and took out the maps.
“I was from Brunei. I came in from Brunei into Miri Sarawak.” I pointed him the route I came in from and tried to stay calm.
“When was that?”. Again, this was standard question. This time I took out my note book which I had entered all data in there. I can see the immigration officer was impressed and the guy with the side arm still said nothing. He didn’t even smile. Maybe it was because the way I present myself or the stuff I had with me. Whatever it was, he sure did his job well. It was very professional. The officer need more documentation proof so I showed him the newspaper article stored in my phone. He took a look at the article asked few more questions and I was ready to whip out more documents when he finished looking at the article and evaluating my answer, I was then told that I cannot make the crossing! Not today and not tomorrow!n
Coming Up Next, Wild Kalimantan! To Be Continued!