I’m now in Pematangsiantar (Siantar) writing this report. Pematangsiantar is second largest town after Medan city. It is at 400 meter above sea level, its cooling here at around 18-20 degrees, much neater than Medan and everything seems to be organized. Surprisingly, it was not in 'Lonely Planet book of Indonesia' at all. I will be resting here for 1 day before making my way up to the Batak’s highland of Parapat (Lake Toba). It is also dangerous to get here to Siantar and I will write it all in my report below. Before that, the continuation of my Medan to Berastagi report.
After my attempt up to Berastagi and all the incidents I met on the way up, I did some assessment and tweak the route further. This is in view of my safety. Getting back down to my start point is not a very hard decision for me to make this time and as my life was at risk riding on the Trans Sumatran Highway.
This video taken coming down from Berastagi to Medan - Credit: Pranvideo77
I need to be responsible to myself and put safety above anything else. It is better to stay at the top while I still can. I had enough of it on the last approached to Bandar Baru when a bus hurtling towards me overtaking another vehicle. I had never experience such thing in my life before and I do not remember such thing happen to me during my warm up stage in Malaysia.
coming down the Trans Sumatran Highway
So instead of using the Trans Sumatran Highway and continue my journey to Parapat from Berastagi, I got back down from the highland back to Medan, rested for 1 day, did some route revision after consulting fellow cyclists in Medan. The new route is South and Southeast to Tebing Tinggi onward to Pematangsiantar and hopefully up again to the highland of Sumatra to Parapat (Lake Toba) and onward.
*This provided it is safe for me to do so; else, I will abandon Sumatra and fine an alternative to be in Java. It is just too dangerous to be doing it day in and day out cycling and risking being hit. Therefore, this is the plan and we will see what happened. By the time you read this, it is either I am on my way up to Bukittinggi or making my gateway out of Sumatra.
Bandar Baru incident
That night when I reached Bandar Baru ‘Bungalow 48’ (it is actually a rundown sort of chalet masquerading as Bungalow), I didn’t really have much choice. I believe it is the only one up there. Even after inspecting the room and found out it did not come with a key and latch, I agree to it. I really need to stop being ‘Mr. Nice Guy’ and go kick some butt here. The person-in-charge name Ah Siong seems nice and we chatted for a little while about everything there, around Bandar Baru and how he a Chinese Indonesia ended up on a Karo village. A while later, the woman on the scooter I met earlier down at 400-meter showed up. She offered me her special ‘Jamu for strengthening’ and massage, but I politely declined and thank her for taking the trouble to look for me. I know she meant well but I do not feel quite comfortable to be doing that in a place I am not very familiar with. Now how can I go out and get dinner if my room does not come with key and latch?
“Oh not to worry, I will go get what you want”. Ah Siong told me. I smell rat immediately but what choice do I have. I ordered just white rice, two fried fish and gravy. Simple, the way I like it. “Bisa Pak” (No problem, Sir).
I went into my room, close the door and used one of the dining chairs available to hold it up the main door by the handle to ‘lock’ it. The water in the bathroom comes from the mountain and it is the old fashion way of bail and a big pail. The one you scoop the water and poured it over yourself. The water is freezing! No sink, no sitting WC, no towel rack and nothing to hang your clothing too. It took me about 10 minutes to get myself cleaned and just after I got out from the bathroom, I heard the knocked on my door. Perfect timing, Ah Siong is back with my dinner and when I asked for the damage, I was told, “Besok aje Pak” (tomorrow morning settle with the room)
I heard a fuss outside when I was having dinner but ignored it. I try to get my dinner done and over with so I can write the report to David and go too sleep. I do not like where this is going and try to ignore it. When I am done with dinner, the noise quiet down and everything seems to be back to normal. Since there is no proper bin in the room, I got out for disposal. The moment I got out, there is this person sitting outside my lodging steps smoking and to show some courtesy, I greeted him good night and he returned the greeting. Conversation broke out and it went on for sometime. At this point of time, my door was left open and I can see he tried looking inside my room. From the body language, the clothing he wore, he is neither traveling long distance nor having business meeting anywhere near or around Bandar Baru. He wore a pair of jean, dark polo shirt with what look like an old leather jacket. I spotted a dragon tattoo on his neck, the drink in his hand (covered in plastic bag) was a Guinness stout and he is highly intoxicated. From the tendency of rubbing his nose repeatedly, I also think he is high on drugs. That is just my assumption of course and I could be wrong. I need to know why he is up here and how long he is going to be around. I managed to dig out some information of him. He is from Aceh (we exchange identity card a trick I always used to confirm if a stranger is faking it), drove up to Bandar Baru from Medan for a “short gateway” (he lied as there wasn’t any car in the lodging compound) and going to leave the next day around lunch time. He asked if I want to go out with him for a light snacks and I declined and told him I am going to sleep early, as my friend is arriving early morning to pick me up from here. (Also a trick I used to tell someone suspicious that someone else knew my location and will be coming – so don’t do anything stupid) He offered me some green substance grown fresh in Aceh and I told him I am religious person and my religion prohibited me from taking those. The way this is going, I know he is up to do something later on. I excused myself and get back inside. Using the same chair, I jammed my door, did a pre-ride check on my bike, put everything back into the panniers, load it on my bike, secured it, I suited up (using my dry riding gears) in case I need to leave in a rush and I went to bed. With me as always are my powerful torch and my folding Smith and Wesson. I will find out if this dude will get an introduction to my Smith and Wesson later on.
The above is a standard safety precaution I always take before going to bed when there is a call for it. In high places like Bandar Baru, you will experience all sorts of people. People with different intention and from what I see, the Acehnese guy might try to sneak in later on and get whatever he can sell for cash. That I will make sure did not happen. Not on my watch.
It was sometime around 2am when I heard the noise from outside again. This time, there were about three people talking loudly. I stayed in bed listening. I do not understand as the conversation was in some sort of local dialect. I decided not to get out as it might be an attempt to get me out from bed and go out and check out what was the commotion about. I tip toe slowly to the door to check if the paper marker I placed earlier on the chair is still in it place. If it does not, it means someone tried to push the door open. It is still there at the original place. I tip toe back to the bed and just lay there looking at the ceiling until I fell asleep again.
The next morning I got up, clean up and look for Ah Siong to settle the bill. Room: Rp80, 000, dinner, Rp60, 000 and big bottle of mineral water, Rp10, 000. Total of Rp150.000. I know he is ripping me off. I negotiated and he agreed for Rp120, 000 and express thanks him for a good service. When he asked me where I am heading next, I told him the Police Station. I do this routinely before I leave the town I am in and report in went I arrived. This way, they know my where about in and out of the town.
leaving Bungalow 48
Tuesday, 29 November 2011, Elevation: 58 meters:
After getting into Medan city centre, I went back to the recognizable Zakia Hotel. I feel like home here though the price is slightly high for a ‘losmen’ (a backpackers place) at Rp130, 000 (S$19.00). Nevertheless, I do not mind it at all, as I get my laundry done free and people here are friendly and I met a few world travelers here. People from France, German and Australia. One memorable moment was an American couple coming to this region to experience Indonesia. The first thing they asked me was, “where was the worst place you’ve been?” I asked them to repeat the question again and they simplify it for me.
”So far your stay here, have you seen any place that is interesting to you?”
”Ah…yes. So far, the only interesting place I have been is the mosquito infested Corner Café Raya. It comes with wifi, next to the Masjid Raya and the busy intersection”.
The instant after hearing me, they laughed and told me their experience coming in from Singapore and into Indonesia to see the difference. When I told them I am from Singapore, they are quite shocked to hear it. “Gosh, you appear to be poorer than average Indonesian!” ”I recognize that…” I smile. My shorts is filling with holes and patches. I just love it and love the way people look at me. When I cycle, I wear simple clothing to move around and people seem to be ignoring me.
my shorts filling with holes
To let my disappointment out of not being able to complete the Medan to Berastagi route, I rode around Medan city centre, visited Ah Yong’s bicycle shop again, and consulted him. I told him what precisely happened on the highland and he told me not to worry about it. I am told to change the route from Medan to Tebing Tinggi and onward to Siantar to rest before going up to Parapat. When I get back to the lodging, I did some research on the new route. I found out the same small road, unsafe and with motor vehicle moving at high-speed. In addition, base on what Om Bahrain told me, it will be highly dangerous.
Road to Tebing Tinggi
What now? Catch the train to Siantar and bypass places like the Tebing Tinggi? There is no harm checking the price. Therefore, I rode out to the train station to check on train availability to Siantar about 150km away from Medan city centre. My ticket cost Rp14, 000 (S$3.00) and my bicycle cost Rp30, 000. Not too bad. Train leave tomorrow at 1.00pm (2.00pm Singapore time). This is the time to try bringing my bike for a train ride and I never sat on a train in Indonesia before. I thank the people at the train ticket counter and told them I will be back tomorrow with my full load and bicycle.
at the train station
I went back to Zakia Hotel, clean up, had dinner and when to sleep very early to ready myself for the long 84km ride to Tebing TInggi.
Wednesday, 30 November 2011, Elevation: 58 meters:
Time Check: 6.00 am (7.00am Singapore time)
I got up early today and start packing everything in but my laptop for some work later on at the Corner Café over breakfast. I did send out my dirty laundry for some cleaning last night after a week of riding (See, at least I maintained hygiene). After all packed, bike checked to be road ready for today ride, I walked to Corner Café for breakfast and did some work. There at Corner Café, I spoke to the café owner on my new route, he told me the exact same thing, to be very careful as it is going to be very dangerous. This same man told me how dangerous it is to be riding up to Berastagi. With the way things are going, it is good that I packed my bicycle in and go catch the train or just take to the air out from Sumatra. I convinced myself to try it, the Medan to Tebing Tinggi route and see what happen.
Time Check: 10.00am (11.00am Singapore time), Elevation: 58meters:
I’m all set to hit the road again. South in addition to southeast about 84km to Tebing Tinggi. Small road and risky and only comfort will be its almost flat as the airport. My first checkpoint will be 20km outside Medan city centre in Tanjung Morawa. I plan to do it real slow at 20kmh and if everything went as charted, I will arrive at Tebing Tinggi at 3.00pm (4.00pm Singapore time) The earlier stretch out of Medan is so much easier, wider road, though still as busy with lots of unlawful parking, street vendor along the road and mini buses stopping anywhere they desires too. As I wrote earlier, it is tiring riding in Medan; there is so many things you need to look out for. There is no structure of designated bus stop, taxi stop or any real enforcement at all. On this particular day, I was on a three-lane road and two of that were choking from unlawful parking and unlawful street vendors. That is how widespread unlawful parking and street vendors is here. The more I think of it, the more I wanted to stop pedaling and just sit along the road and…”I need to get myself sidetracked from this lunacy…” I have commit to memory what Adi Bochap Roman (my ol’ bro) told me, “get yourself distracted when the going get tough”. Out come my entertainment system and listening to my favorite music collection. Slowly, I got out from Medan madness and to a quieter road and I was powering out from on the flat road at 20-25kmh.
Time Check: 11.00am (12.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 58 meters:
I reached my first checkpoint at Tanjung Morawa one hour after I left Medan city centre and stop at a small road side stall. I spontaneously ordered my hot tea, sat there, and noted some notes for later writing. I need to get out on the road as quickly before it gets packed and blistering.
at my first rest stop
The first 20kmh today was just me loosening up my muscle for the day and I know the next 64km going to be stiff. The roads along the first 20km have been good with little potholes and wide enough for two buses to race each other. I took the narrow road shoulder and so far, no one inconvenience me and that did not mean the honking has stop. The Indonesia motorists are so gripped with the horn from my little experience here and I think they cannot drive without honking at least 10 times a day. I think it is the way of life to honk for no apparent reason. “Just honk, dong” should be the new slogan on the driving license. I never hear honking this much in my entire life. Every minutes of my life, here is filling with honking. God know what happen if the honking stops.
At the warung, I met the elderly owner who seems to have survived through the Japanese occupation and chatted with him. We spoke about his life in Tanjung Morawa and what he did for a living. I told him where I arrive from and what I am doing in Sumatra. Most people get pleasantly surprised when I told them I am attempting to cycle from Medan to Bali and mostly will tell me it is impossible. (I think they are 100% correct. The pollution, the drivers, the roads conditions, the weather making it impossible)
Just last week, pedaling up towards Berastagi, a lady told me that was the first time she notice someone cycling up with loads. I myself saw Evrim and Elif (brother and sister team) cycling down from the other side – Berastagi to Medan. Oh well, there is always going to be the first time.
After about 20 minutes at my first stop, I say my thanks and good-bye to the elderly man and gear up for the next 20km ride to the next rest point and hopefully lunch. By now, I can see the traffic getting heavier and feeling the sun getting blistering hot. To be able to arrive at Tebing Tinggi in good time, I need to sustain 20kmh and that also not forgetting to ride out of harm's way. By this time, the road got smaller and the vehicles still going faster like the destination they are going might not be there if they are late. “Jam karet” loosely translated is Singapore version of “rubber timing” and I believe the course of this rushing from point A to point B. If you were late for delivery or appointment, what would you do usually when you are driving? Speed and pay no attention to safety or other road users.
I saw several crashed vehicles on display along the roads deliberately placed by the traffic department to remind people ‘speeding kills’. I hope that really make people thinks twice. However, I doubt it.
Time Check: 12.00pm (1.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 63 meters:
I am still making good time but its just too hot for me to reach the next 20km rest point marker. I stop at a big ‘Garuda Restaurant’ 2 km short of my original planned rest point and meet one Japanese person smoking outside the restaurant. He is managing the rubber company that owns many rubber plantations in Sumatra. I think its Bridgestone. Slowly, crowds congregate and as usual, there will be many questions. Where am I from? How long have I been in Indonesia? Am I not tired? Where do I sleep? Do I miss home?
One Indonesian couple invited me to have lunch with them but I beg to be excused, as I was not ready to have a spectacular Indonesian lunch, not until I acknowledged this adventure is over. Now, I want to give attention to to do as much distance in Sumatra. I continue sitting outside the restaurant and answering stranger question. I did not mind at all, as I need someone to talks to anyway and good to put into practice my Bahasa Indonesia.
I left the Restaurant after 30 minutes of rest and toilet break. The first time I see toilet this spotless. One time before lunch somewhere in the highland of Sumatra, I enter one communal ‘W.C”, I came out and not thoughts of lunch anymore. That will give you the representation of Sumatra public toilet. I think there is something wrong here, something needed to get done urgently, and it got to starts with basic discipline and instill on the young. The administration needs to focus on the small things before it got out of hand. Simple things like “litter are meant to be in the bin” need to be cultivated in everyone. I remember in 2010 I was in one of Bali Mountain top having munchies and needed to throw the wrappers after, I asked the shop owner where I could throw the wrapper, she just told me to toss it wherever. I refused and walked to look for the bin and found none and walked back to ask her again, this time in a grim sound. She pointed to me behind her shop. I walked behind and saw something until today gave me the impression of Bali and its surrounding environment.
the mountain of rubbish in Sumatra
These are small things needed to be cultivated in the young people of Indonesia, very urgently, particularly people in the villages. They need to understand that anything that goes in the river, will reach down into someone else villages.
Time Check: 1.00pm (2.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 63 meters:
Again, I didn’t go very far and didn’t hit my next 20km marker. I was push out of the road twice, again by oncoming bus overtaking a truck and another one by a truck overtaking a car! Shaking from the double terrifying experience, I rode in to Pertamina (Indonesia National petroleum station) and just sat there.
at the Pertamina Petrol Station
By now, I am already left with no fuel (my rice balls and bananas) and left with only one spare water bottle and temperature soaring to about 40. It is so hot I am having doubt that I can ride the next 34km or so around this hour. I decided to just hang around the petrol station for a little while and get myself sorted. I bought two bottles of coke, one bottle of big Aqua water (water came from the Berastagi water processing plant) and went to chat with the station service provider who are there repairing one pump. Once I got them talking and sharing with them where I am from, we got on well. An hour later, the three of us (two of the service provider and me) decided to meet just inside Tebing Tinggi. The time was 2.00pm when we left the station and they told me I would be there one hour and 30 minutes. “Kami tunggu saja disana yea bang?” (We’ll wait for you there at pre-planned makan place). ”Ok.” I agreed and look at the time. 2.00pm and I got 34km more. If I do 20kmh, I should be there 90 minutes. This if nothing happens and the roads stays bicycle friendly. I took off before them going at 20-25kmh until for about 5km, I heard honking behind (what is new eh?) The honking keep going and getting nearer and low and behold, the two people I met at Pertamina.
“Wanker” I shouted at them and laughed. I think I had enough of honking and if I get another honking like this in Singapore, I will hammer those people. (joking)
We wave and they shouted, “Gerbang Beo!” The place where we suppose to meet ninety minutes later. This is where it got harder, when you planned to meet someone some thirty-four kilometers away on a small busy road made worse you are on a bicycle. I am now in that real situation. I made the obligation to meet them there and when I made commitment, nothing will be in my way to stop me – usually, in Singapore that is practicable. Not here, my brothers. Not in Sumatra. Ten kilometers out from Pertamina petrol station, about 500 meters ahead of me, I saw this scrap metal bus approaching at high-speed overtaking row of slowing down vehicle. “What the fu_k!” I looked to my left, no way for me to get in to the left, as it is just too small and dangerous. I stayed on my line in tight control of my bike. The f_cker high beam and honking to tell me, “get the fu_k out! I am coming!” Instead of slowing down and get back in into his lane, he kept coming at me. I can’t stop as it will be too dangerous if there is a fast coming vehicle behind. It is me in the drain (more like dirty smelly stinky water) or stayed on my line. I stayed on my line and know this going to be it. two hundred meters or there about, I saw there is no way he ever going to be able to make through with me on the road. I bring my bike slightly to the edge of the road and here we go. The scrap metal barely passing me with only 1-2 feet apart. Very closed call. After this, I tell myself, “screw it, I am leaving Sumatra”. I do not want to be a statistic here. I rode on forward to find a place to settle and took a picture of the road.
500 meter away is where the head on collision almost happen
I rode the rest of the 24km with a heavy heart to continue. This is one of the shittiest place I ever been. Motorists here are mostly lowly educated I think and they take life cheap. I had enough of this and once I reached my destination, I will plan my gateway out from Sumatra.
Below, I’ll give one example the kind of people I got to deal with every time I’m on the road here;
Mini bus driver. They will cuts into your line and stop immediately. Not likes there is any passenger for them to pick, they just doing it out of boredom and to see your reaction. On my way downward from Bandar Baru, I gave one Mini Bus driver a piece of my mind. I was enraged as he was doing it for fun and laugh when he saw that I almost hit by another car coming from behind. I hope he peed in his pant when I told him I will take down his number and report it to the traffic police of his action.
Along the way about 15km outside Tebing Tinggi in a small town of Sungei Rampah, I saw something that its hard for me to believe. An old man, looking dirty and homeless, standing over the other side of the road, practically had his pants down and showing his manhood to the open I am curious and I wanted to take the picture of this and stop safely by the side. For about twenty minutes, no police come and I thought how lawless this part of the world is. I continued and I thought, how sad for this to happen here in Indonesia, a Muslim country and disregard basic welfare for it citizen.
Time Check: 4.30pm (5.30pm Singapore time), Elevation: 80 meters:
I entered Tebing Tinggi an hour late from planned as I have already lost heart to continue. Good thing there is no airport here or I would packed it in and fly the next flight out. I couldn't find the two chap I promised to meet and continue to ride around Tebing Tinggi small city centre (third largest in Medan) and I know this place is not worth to hang around more than a night. I plotted "lodging" in the GPS and it brought me to two places. One a cheap Rp50, 000 “losmen” (backpackers) with lack of security and the second a typical “Indonesia hotel” where it’s work still in progress going for Rp150,000 (S$22.00) with wifi and a “restaurant”. As I needed to get some work done, I chose the latter. The joke was when I was asked, “What time do you want your breakfast, Pak?” I am like, “for real? You’ll send it on time?” I told her I want it at 9.00am Indonesian time. She actually wrote it down!
the hotel where work is still in progress
Just when I thought, “Wow, at last I can rest and think what will be my next plan be and hopefully it will get better tomorrow”, I got another drama coming at me.
From my previous lesson, learn at Bandar Baru, I asked to see the room. At Rp150, 000, I think I deserved to check the room. Fantastic spacious room but there is not electricity and the TV is not working and guessed what, is just like any other ‘Indonesia Hotel’ and filled with huge mozzies. I would not want to pay for room like this and asked for another room. The hotel staff showed me his grouchy face and walk back to the reception to get another room key. This time room ‘04’, not as “fancy” than the first but at least there is electricity with the TV is waiting to be send to the scrap yard . I am surprised it is still sitting in the room collecting dust – same price. This is the classic of ‘Indonesian Hotel’. The bathroom always shorts of hanging rack, what is up with that? Will I get one if I pay slightly more? No. I stayed in a Rp220, 000 before in Bali and the same. The best part was the hotel staff waited for me outside to be tipped. I gave him Rp2, 000 out of appreciation. The ‘restaurant’? It was just a place for the contractor working on the hotel to hang out. I was disappointed of course and just took it in and told myself ‘when in Rome, do what the Roman does’ – “tidak apa, pak”. I quickly get myself sorted, go out to eat and get back to the hotel to sleep early. I just did a very stressful 84km and I thought of nothing else but too sleep it off.
Thursday, 1 December 2011
Time Check: 7.00 am (8.00am Singapore time), Elevation: 80 meters:
I slept well as I am tired and did not wake up until I get a knocked on my door at 7.00am (8.00am Singapore time). “Breakfast, Pak…” Oh man...
I got a rude wake up call from room service. I remember telling the receptionist breakfast for me is at 9.00am. What was shocking is that, when I opened my door and wanted to receive my breakfast, I was pushed aside and two lady (one carrying the tea and the other a plate of toast) just walk into my room and speaking in Bahasa, “Ini orang dari kampung, lihat, dia datang dengan sepeda” (this guy is from the village, look he came with a bicycle). I told them off and do not let me see them again later in Bahasa Indonesia. So much of room service.
Time Check: 8.00 am (9.00am Singapore time), Elevation: 80 meter:
I get myself sorted, cleaned up and packed up my stuff but the laptop as I needed to check my email. I got out to the ‘restaurant’ and did some work there. I get myself some breakfast at the restaurant, not without problem. I was told my breakfast was sent early this morning. I told them yes, but that was just tea and toast, not fried rice and free flow of the coffee.
Time Check: 9.00 am (10.00am Singapore time), Elevation: 80 meters:
I got a message from Edi my Medan contact that some people in Tebing Tinggi wanted to meet me. One Pak Safwan a Police chief in Tebing TInggi and Salman a BMX team leader. I am ok to meet them as for today I only got 50km to do cover and I can leave at 11.00am and slow ride to Pematangsiantar to resolve my visa issue.
When Salman arrived at the hotel, I was told Pak Safwan could only meet me later at 5.00pm. That is not good news to me as I have made plan to be at Pematangsiantar today and I am reluctant to stay another in Tebing Tinggi. We hang around until about 11am and we rode together to Tebing Tinggi town to try to sort one matter.
Salman and his team at my hotel compound
The bank staff in BCA is quite helpful and advised me to head on to Pematangsiantar.
I have to be in Pematangsiantar today to sort some bank matter there (Siantar is second largest city in Medan) We went back to the hotel compound to chat more and by this time, I really think I should be heading to Pematangsiantar before the immigration closed.
I politely declined Salman offer to hang around for another day and visited his home as I think the immigration will only open half a day on Friday.
Time Check: 2.00 pm (3.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 80 meters:
After hanging around for about two hours, I left Tebing Tinggi. It’s still raining and immediately after passing Tebing Tinggi town, I can feel the gradual climb to about 130meter above sea level. It is about the height of Singapore Mount Faber. As I got 48km to be in Pematangsiantar before the immigration close or it gets dark, I did consistent 20kmh on an uneven road filled with potholes. I passed by oil palm plantation and since I have not take my lunch, I scanned for a roadside ‘warung’ for a quick bite. I found one just 10km outside Tebing Tinggi, a truck R&R. Here is where I almost gave up dealing with Indonesia everyday simple people. I like my tea to come with less sugar and usually I will ordered “teh kurang manis”. less sweet or less sugar). This young man taking my order asked, “What does that mean, Sir?" in Bahasa Indonesia.
”It mean, I want my tea to be less sweet” I reply him.
”How many spoon of sugar you want then?” He asked.
”How many do you usually put in a cup?” I reply him.
”How many do you usually put in a cup?” I reply him.
”I do not know. Do you want me to make your tea without sugar?”
”Yes please. I add the sugar later on, if you can please bring out the sugar out”.
A while later, he came out with the tea filled with the usual sugar level and with another small bowl of sugar. When I asked him if there is sugar in my tea, he answered, “Yes”.
”But why?”
”Because our tea always comes with sugar…I don’t know how to make tea without sugar”.
I almost fainted.
at the truckers lunch stop.
(This is also to give you the scale of the monster
I am with most of the time when I am on the road in Sumatra)
I left the stop as quickly possible. No point hanging around as the rain has not stopped and I hate riding so late in the day. I got about 38km more to go from here and it is like from Fort Road to Changi Village and back to Fort Road. The only different now is I am on the road riding with the rest of “drivers rushing to their next destination”.
Time Check: 3.00 pm (4.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 120 meters:
I haven’t found any safe place to stop after 20km of pedaling. Small road, no shoulder, potholes and I told myself to go on until I find a safe place to stop. After the oil plantation, I rode through the rubber plantation…about 10 km of it and I saw one durian stall on over the other side of the road about 2 km ahead. A chance for me to stop for a durian break. I am now about 16km out from Pematangsiantar city and I can slow down a little.
Time Check: 4.00 pm (5.00pm Singapore time), Elevation: 160 meters:
The durian was not that good at all. I prefer Singapore Geylang or Malaysian village’s durian anytime. I paid Rp5, 000 for one which I never finished and gear up to catch up sometime to be at the immigration 2km out from my durian stop.
Within 10 minutes, I saw the Immigration Department ahead and check my side view mirror to prepare for the right turn into the immigration. All clear, make the turns into Immigration and no one was there as it’s almost closing time. I got the officer to attend to me immediately and she told me she to wait as she will get one relevant officer to attend to me before going out of my sight. I stand at the counter and wait. 10 minutes, no one showed up, 20 minutes later another woman officer showed up but was talking to the phone. I walked outside to check if my bike is still there. Walk back in the woman officer still on the phone. After about thirty minutes, she hangs up and asked if she can help me. “Yes ma’m, I was told at the airport to come here to extend my social visit Visa”.
”May I see your passport?” She asked.
”Sure ma’m.” I took out my passport and place it over the counter.
”You got anything else other than this?” She asked.
”Yes Ma’m” I took out my newspaper cutting to let her read of my intention being in Indonesia.
”What is this for? This won’t get your Visa extended.”
”Ok…” I replied and waited for her respond.
”Do you have anything else that might help to get your Visa extended?” She asked again.
”I don’t, ma’m.”
”I am sorry, I can’t help you.” She handed me my passport and that was it.
I am puzzled and explain to her that the immigration officer in Medan directed me to come here for the extension.
She told me I should get it at the airport instead of coming down to the office.
”So what now?” I asked her.
She leaned towards the counter and speaks softly to me, “I can’t help you, your document is not enough”
I thank her and walked out. I don’t get it. What with the “document not enough”? Is money part of the document?
I put my gear back on and left the Immigration department. The climb to 400meter to Pematangsiantar city was a slow one. One disappointment after another. It is a sign for me to heads home and maybe chooses the next country for my mission.
I reached Pematangsiantar town after an hour of pedaling up at 6.00pm to a beautiful guesthouse and handle by nice people. I am so glad I am here and happy. I needed this badly. I had a superb Nasi Ayam Penyet and rest my tired soul. I will give myself a day off tmorrow and I will see if I am going to climb to Parapat.
Outside Humanitas Guest House
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