RA's Journal Day 04, Tuesday, Oct 11

Today's Question:

Question:

What is the road condition like in the Southern part of Malaysia? Do you think it is safe to cycle there?

Answer:

Safety is always my foremost concern. No matter how safe a country is, it is still the skills, common sense and instincts in us that determines our ultimate safety. I was so lucky to have bros that were willing to drive me around the West Coast route of Malaysia 3 weeks ago to survey the conditions prior to my solo journey. I must say that the Johor State Government has done a great job in providing motorcycle lanes on most part of the old highways. I rode many miles on it yesterday and today. Read about it and check out the photos to get a clearer picture of what I'm describing.

The motorcycle lane which I have been cycling on

Day 04, Batu Pahat - Muar (60km)

Accumulated distance travelled: 256km

I think the weather these days is really screwed up and often difficult to predict. It doesn't even seem to rain much during the monsoon season, it is sometimes even scorching hot. And then during the non-monsoon season the rain comes pelting down at you mercilessly, uprooting trees, causing floods and generally disrupting the lives of the affected people. Like the rains that I have been experiencing the last couple of days of riding, it really disrupted my riding plans.

Again today, my 3rd day on the road, I woke up to pounding rain. No, in fact, I fell asleep listen to the rainfall and blowing winds which uprooted trees. It was fortunate that I was sleeping in a hotel again and not camping out. The main reason for the hotel stays wasn't because of the rain but rather an issue of safety. I was told that the late night crowd are a different bunch, which I shall talk about later.

I managed to get a cheap hotel (Setia Hotel, Batu Pahat) for RM30 through my Batu Pahat contact. There is not much to complain about, I get to clean up, wash my clothes and get a good safe nights rest. It's cheap and so doesn't come with wifi. That explains why David hasn't been receiving timely reports from me. This hotel is apparently popular with cyclist from all over the world. And guys, you must come and stay here to find out more.

Today, I woke up early as usual, like when I was preparing myself for this adventure back in Singapore. Wake up at 0430hrs (4.30am Singapore time), make coffee, water my plants, get warm and suited up, then leave between 0500-0530hrs (5-5.30am Singapore time). Although the rhythm has stayed with me, the rains have been stopping and delaying me, today being no exception. Not to waste precious time, I rubbed my injured thigh with a special medicated oil from my late mum (not sure if the expiry date on the oil has passed) in the hope that this will help my thigh recover. Then it was onto yoga, followed by a review of my route for today. Yes! Great! there will be no climbing today, it's pretty much a long flat 60km ride to Muar. I also noted the sites that I needed to check out and the places that I needed try the local dishes.

By 0830hrs (8.30am Malaysian time) I was ready to leave and was standing in front of the hotel, but the weather had other plans, and allowing me to leave wasn't it. Whilst waiting for the rain to stop I was chatting with the hotel staff about bicycles, Singapore and food, but the rain didn't seemed to be stopping anytime soon. So, I went off to a nearby coffee shop for "roti canai" (Malaysian/Singaporean Indian kind of crepe) and "teh tarik" (pulled milk tea). A place I believe some of my riding buddies would be familiar with. We stopped there on the way to Malacca 3 weeks ago.

Since the rain seem to be continuing on, and time was running out for me to reach Muar in good time, I got my rain gear on and set off sharp at 0930hrs (9.30am Malaysian time). It was very demoralizing to ride in the rain, but I soon realized that I probably would be going to get this pretty frequently throughout my entire trip, so I might as well make the most of it and enjoy it. I actually opened my mouth to drink some of the rain water along the way ..... laugh ..... removed my rain jacket and rode without it in the rain. What else can I do right?

Editor's note: Yes bradder RA. Make the most of it. Carpe Diem. But make sure you take care of your health too mate!

Leaving Batu Pahat behind me, peddling away, there wasn't a drop of rain outside of Batu Pahat. Was I glad that there was no rain. I managed to cycle a little faster with my rain gear off and the road conditions improving. The other road users so far were generally nice, I get friendly honks, waves and cheers on a daily basis, and bananas were on the house at every fruit stall that I stopped.

At around 1130hrs (11.30am Malaysian time) I reached the town of Semerah at the district border of Batu Pahat and Muar, and the first fruit stall, which I stopped at, manned by 2 sisters had no bananas, so I just had a chat with them. The younger sister, Farah, was good looking and single. She loves Singaporean men, but not one that cycles to his destinations. This means I am technically out. All these stalls/shops that you see along the roadside, most of them own the land behind it or the land which it is on. They would build houses on it and rent it out. The cost of the land? RM1,000...... 30 years ago..... jaw drops.

My first rest stop for the day

As I was leaving, Farah told me to lookout for another fruit stall 12 clicks (km) down the road. Look for it I did, a fantastic suggestion. Farah if you are reading this, THANK YOU!.

Stopping at the suggested fruit stall with the intention of purchasing 2 bananas, I was handed a whole bunch by the owner with a smile before I could even open my mouth to say anything. The communication around the towns here are pretty modern ..... laugh ..... Seeing that I was given an entire bunch of bananas for free it was only right that I had lunch at his "warung", which was exactly what I did. I just love the kampong style of cooking, the fried chicken beats the red and white chicken anytime. At the "warung" I chatted with Mr. Mustafa, a local, who was so kind to buy me lunch. Mr. Mustafa if you are reading this blog, THANK YOU!

My banana loading and lunch stop

The next town I was heading for was Kampong Parit Jawa, known for its Assam Pedas (Malay style of cooking that's spicy and tamarind) style of cooking, in particular seafood or fish. But riding at noon to get there before it closed made the road feel like a sizzling hot frypan! Kampong Parit Jawa is a small fishing town that lies approximately 20km away from Muar. The crowds will tell you how delicious and popular the Muar Medan Assam Pedas is, but since I don't take spicy food, all I could do was enjoy the aroma of the assam pedas that was being cooked. Now, I know why my late mum's assam pedas was awesome, she's from Muar.

Just outside Medan Assam Pedas

While I was there, I visited the fishing village and chatted with the fishermen and watched them repair their boats, then headed straight to Tanjung Emas before I headed into Muar town. Tanjung Emas is where the town's Chief Judge and the who's who of Muar actually live, even the Sultan of Johor has an Istana (Malay for palace) there.

The fishing village

Tanjung Emas, Muar

Arriving Muar, I rode around to see if there was anything that would catch my attention and attracted me. If you are looking for a Bali like town, Muar is the place to be. Nice hotel, clean and lively town with friendly people to boot.

I was told in Pontian and Batu Pahat never to camp in Johor alone overnight. The teenagers here gets carried away. To be safe, I heeded the advice and searched for cheap hotel to call home for the night. I was almost ripped off by one of the el-cheepo hotels. When I got to the hotel a guy came out to welcome me and asked me to register. I enquired if they had wifi as I needed to update stuff to David. The guy told me yes, the room comes with air conditioning and wifi, but not television for RM30. Agreeing on the price I pushed my bike in, handed him RM50 and so expecting RM20 in change to be returned to me. Instead I was told that RM50 was not enough, the room I wanted would cost RM55, he went on to explain that the price he gave me was a special price, so no wifi.

I told him thanks and left. HOTEL LEEWA, Muar, No,75 Jalan Arab

Heading off to search for another hotel, I met a Canadian couple touring on their sailboat for the past 12 years. John and Lily, if you are reading this, lets hook up again somewhere in Penang. Leaving John and Lily, I met another couple that told me all about the delicious Tanjung Emas Mee Rojak!

John and Lily from Canada

This journal email was written in Muar's coolest budget hotel - My Budget Inn. Nice and clean rooms with a cafe to boot, plus a damn cool owner. Having dinner and drinking A&W root beer at her cafe ..... Nice!

Work and dinner at My Budget Inn Cafe

The three things that made smile today:

1. Riding in the rain and enjoying it.
2. Met John and Lily from Canada who has been sailing around the world for 12 years.
3. Got directed to My Budget Inn by a Muar couple.